zelin0802 / August 17, 2022

HYT Watches Reopen With The Hastroid Green Nebula

The independent watchmaker specializing in fluid displays is back with a first best watch from Cerrato!

If you follow the independent watchmaking scene, you must know the difficulties HYT Watches, the UFO of the watchmaking world, has encountered in making watches with fluid indications. After about a year of dormancy, we can now say it loud and clear: HYT is back in action with a new partner (Kairos Technology Switzerland SA) and new CEO Davide Cerrato to support the business… this The name is sure to ring a bell. And today, the brand presents the first watch of its new era, the HYT Hastroid. We were able to spend some time on the Green Nebula Edition.

HYT – From Concept to Rebirth
Behind HYT is a concept, a vision to show time in an unprecedented and decidedly unnatural way. HYT swiss Watches, created in 2012, don’t use traditional hands that revolve around the dial, but a new fluid-based display… Liquid in watches (and magnetism, the worst enemy of mechanical movements)? Yep, that’s the whole idea. While it is true that in all HYT watches there is a rather (relatively) classic mechanical movement used as the driving force and adjustment for the indications, the display relies on an additional module consisting of bellows and capillaries, two of which are not mixed The dissolved fluid travels in a retrograde fashion to indicate the passage of time, and the point where the two fluids meet represents the current time.

Since developing the original concept in 2012, the brand has not only introduced watches with evolutions in movements and fluid mechanisms, but also made some improvements to address some important issues. The main reason is the expansion of the fluid due to temperature changes – keep in mind that the watch is either worn on the wrist or stored, creating temperature changes. To do this, the brand has added a thermal compensator inside one of the bellows.

Following the H1 model presentation, we saw the H2 watch, the rather insane H3 watch, and the slightly simplified H4 watch. A new direction was taken for 2017/18 with a refreshed design in the H0 model. Smoother and simpler. In 2019, the Haoyitong H5 introduced a new movement, again with some important mechanical updates to make the indications more precise and improve legibility. At the end of 2020, however, the brand had to face some difficulties, but since then there has been not only a new shareholder, but also a new CEO Davide Cerrato (ex-Tudor, ex-Montblanc). Since I’ve known this guy for years, I know he’d be a good fit. Passionate about any science fiction, Cerrato is sure to breathe fresh air into the HYT collection.

This new watch, the Hastroid, marks the beginning of a new journey for HYT. It is built with a new design concept, a new inspiration and a new case. And, the overall inspiration goes back to the company’s roots, returning to edgy, modern, sharp shapes. HYT Hastroid is designed to resemble a spaceship. It’s big, bright and bold. After all, HYT’s insanely fluid display calls for this kind of boldness.

The case for the new HYT Hastroid, shown in its Green Nebula Edition, is all about architecture and science fiction inspiration. The case is angular, layered, and has a mix of materials. It’s also fairly airy, with a hollowed-out structure. However, this is a statement. It has a diameter of 48mm, a height of 17.90mm and an overall length of 58.30mm. Yes, the watch is big and bold on the wrist. Surprisingly, on Frank’s 18cm wrist (he’s the model for the photo), the watch looks much more comfortable and, dare I say, a little more compact than the numbers suggest.

HYT Hastroid completely redefines the overall design. No more pebble-shaped sapphire crystals. The new watch is more angular, almost square, but the skeletonized lugs add a certain airy feel to the case. The top surface is now flatter and indications are clearly visible. To make the watch slightly less “clunky”, Cerrato created a central container held by a square frame, with the sides of the watch opening to reveal different textures.

Our HYT Hastroid Green Nebula case is made from a combination of brushed, black-coated titanium and carbon fiber, making it less visually striking and lighter on the wrist. As a traditional feature, the crown is located at 2 o’clock and is protected by a module that runs along the side of the case. The multi-layered “sandwich” construction also allows for the clean integration of the rubber strap that connects between the two upper layers of the case – here rendered in green rubber, but also available with green Alcantara inserts black rubber.

The watch face of the Hastroid of Oytime has also received attention. The design has also been redefined here, with the return of the skeletonized textured structure that reveals most of the watch’s mechanical elements. The main plate is hollowed out and covered with a sapphire plate; therefore, both the mechanical part (top) and the fluid part (bellows in the lower part and capillaries around the dial) are fully visible. The movement consists of a black-coated plate with a grid pattern, which is decorated with bold Arabic numerals filled with bright green luminous material.

The main evolution of the HYT Hastroid compared to the brand’s previous watches is the display of the minutes. The pointer is now centered for maximum legibility. It is flanked by two classic indicators, the small seconds and the power reserve. Of course, the raison d’être of the HYT, the fluid indication of the hours, still exists around the dial and acts as a retrograde indication, jumping back to its initial position when the green fluid reaches the 6 o’clock position.

Fluid indication is still powered by the same ideas as before. Two bellows located in the lower part of the movement create a pressure movement on the fluid. The left bellows/piston module pushes the green fluid into the capillary, which over time pushes the clear fluid into the right bellows. The point where the two fluids meet, the two are immiscible, marks the current time. The system requires a highly waterproof mechanism – the entire fluid module is 10,000 times more airtight than a conventional dive watch (at least, according to the brand). The system is thus sealed. Thermal expansion can also be compensated by a clever device integrated into one of the bellows.

Powering our HYT Hastroid Green Nebula is the Calibre HYT 501-CM, a movement that should sound familiar to fans of the brand as it is based on the same technology that renowned watchmaker Eric Coudray developed for the H5 , and then an improved Hassted on launch. In addition to changing from off-centre minutes to central minutes, the movement’s decoration has also been updated, with black-coated bridges and bridges, as well as satin-finished and rhodium-plated moving parts.

The movement still consists of two separate modules connected by levers. On top is a mechanical engine with a frequency of 4Hz and a power reserve of 72 hours. This mechanical module has two functions. First, it stipulates the time to provide precise indications. Second, it is the driving force indicated by the fluid, giving it momentum and providing a constant displacement to act on the motion of the fluid. The connection to the fluid device is through an oversized lever, a curved tentacle spindle or “sensor” for the coordination of the mechanism, and a complex-shaped cam with 13 positions to precisely synchronize the hour and minute indications. This sensor converts the circular motion of the movement’s wheels into linear motion, which pushes the bellows and fluid.

Behind this new design, there is also a new strategy for the brand. Production will be more concentrated, fewer versions will be made, fewer models will be made, and the retailer network will be more condensed, strategies that may increase its desirability. https://www.review4uwatch.com

Technical Specifications – HYT HASTROID Green Nebula
Case: Diameter 48mm x H17.90mm – Length 58.30mm – Black Coated Titanium and Carbon Fiber Case – AR Coated Domed Sapphire Crystal – Sapphire Case Back – Black Titanium Screw Down Crown – 50m waterproof
Dial: Black Coated Brass and Sapphire Plate – 3D Black Coated Appliques and Green Luminous Numerals – Black Coated Titanium Grid – Green Liquid Inside Borosilicate Capillaries
Movement: Caliber HYT 501-CM – Proprietary Fluid Complication – Manual winding – 41 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 72 hours power reserve – Retrograde fluid hours, central minutes, small seconds, power reserve
Strap: Green or black rubber strap with green Alcantara insert – black coated titanium buckle
Reference: H02698-A

zelin0802 / August 16, 2022

Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial

The Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001 has a forest green dial with beautiful hand-guilloché decoration. The crown features a button that opens the hinged lid with a single push, revealing an extremely refined automatic movement. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders in 2022, this iconic watch of Haute Horlogerie once again showcases the Maison’s extraordinary expertise.

Chopard Manufacture – established in 1996

Last year, Chopard celebrated an important milestone in its history. In 1996, the family business opened Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. While the company had made watches before this, those were equipped with third-party movements. Becoming a manufacturer, producing in-house movements, is a big undertaking, and not without risks. To understand the rationale for the Fleurier website, one has to go back to the early 1990s.

Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele predicts an eventual renaissance in mechanical watchmaking. It must be remembered that some companies are still licking their wounds after the quartz crisis, a traumatic time that saw countless watch brands and their suppliers come to an end. Mr. Scheufele’s optimism seemed bold at least to some observers, and may even be misplaced by others, however, his prediction of a brighter sky proved to be right.

When the Chopard copy Manufacture opened in 1996, it employed only two employees. Some 25 years later, after investing tens of millions of Swiss francs, the watch factory has achieved great success and now has more than 170 employees in various positions. The first movement of the LUC 1.96 (now known as the LUC Calibre 96.01-L) was just the beginning. The Swiss brand continues to produce countless beautiful watch movements, some of which are highly complex. In fact, Chopard’s ambitions have never waned, and its ability to innovate is endless. For example, the Chopard LUC 8HF, released back in 2012, received COSC certification despite its balance running at an eye-watering 57,600 vph (8Hz).

In-house expertise

When visiting the site at Fleurier, one is struck by the multitude of processes taking place under one roof. This is a shining example of a “vertically integrated company.” In addition, the brand’s LUC models eventually feature movements so refined that they deserve the term “haute horlogerie”. Finishing is typical, all traces of machining have been removed. Finishing or “finishing” also enhances the corrosion resistance of movement components and imparts an aesthetic appeal that goes beyond mere function.

Some of the brand’s LUC movements are subject to independent scrutiny by COSC, Qualité Fleurier or Poinçon de Genève. Interestingly, in 2011 Chopard released the LUC triple certification, which, as the name suggests, meets the standards of all three certification bodies mentioned above.

In 2008, Chopard opened a separate factory in Fleurier to manufacture in-house movements for some Happy Sport and Alpine Eagle models. With its expertise in making cases and bracelets as well as crafting a variety of craftsmanship, the high-end brand’s talents are multi-faceted.

LUC Calibre 96.01-L (LUC 1.96) – excellent from the start

If a copy watch company were to produce its first in-house movement, one would expect it to produce a relatively simple hand-wound movement that only displays the hours and minutes. From the outset, however, the brand has displayed extraordinary ambitions, clearly intent on competing with the established brands of Haute Horlogerie.

Chopard’s first self-winding movement continues to be produced, although it is now known as the LUC Calibre 96.01-L. It uses a micro rotor instead of the usual full-size oscillating weight. Even today, only a few companies have the expertise to manufacture movements equipped with micro-rotors. In fact, generating enough inertia from a small rotating piece of dense metal (22K gold in this case) capable of powering the mainspring is no easy task. However, Chopard has clearly shown that it is up to the task. By the way, the LUC Calibre 96.01-L has two barrels and therefore two mainsprings, another property I will talk about later.

The micro-rotor is flush with the adjacent bridge, not above. This approach reduces the height of the movement (only 3.30 mm thick) and allows the wearer to indulge the superb view of the finely decorated movement.

While many watch movements feature a single barrel, this one features two stacked barrels. Taking this approach increases the power reserve, in this case about 65 hours. Furthermore, by using two barrels, the power transmitted through the gear train, which ultimately serves the escapement, is more consistent. While this should not be confused with a constant force device, as the energy inside the barrel becomes more and more depleted, the amplitude changes will be smaller. The end result is excellent rate stability.

Chopard also equipped the LUC 1.96 with a three-spoke balance wheel with a traditional hairspring and index adjuster. The latter component comes in the form of a highly polished gooseneck adjuster. The balance wheel is fitted with a sliding stud cap, giving the watchmaker a useful way to correct any rhythm errors.

The hairspring (also called hairspring) is equipped with a Philips terminal curve. This involves changing the curvature of the outer ring of the hairspring. The concept of the Philips terminal curve is similar to the Breguet Supercoil, which makes the breathing of the hairspring more concentric, thus providing excellent isochronism.

In keeping with Haute Horlogerie, the main plate is embellished with pearls, while the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, engraved gilt text and glittering screws. One aspect of this movement that I find particularly flattering is Chopard’s decision to leave a gap between the bridges to provide a partial view of the gear train and barrel.

When Chopard released its ambitious LUC 1.96, it was scrutinized by COSC and Poinçon de Genève. Quite simply, with the release of this movement, the company has set very high standards.

Chopard LUC 1860

The first watch to feature the LUC 1.96 was the Chopard LUC 1860, released in 1997. With a diameter of 37 mm, this watch has a classic and understated style that was eventually carried over to several other LUC models.

The Chopard LUC 1860 features princess hour and minute hands, opposite the tapered hour markers. The central area of ​​the dial is beautifully decorated with a delicate wavy guilloche, and finally, a clear minute track wraps around the perimeter of the display. https://www.review4uwatch.com/

Chopard resists the temptation to dictate too many dials. In addition to the hours and minutes, small seconds and a date display are included. Clean, uncluttered and supremely elegant, this early Chopard LUC 1860 shows a clear intention to compete at the highest echelons of watchmaking.

In the years that followed, the luxury brand released further iterations of the Chopard LUC 1860, all of which retained the essence of the original.

Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial – Ref. 161242-0001

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2022, Chopard introduced several new models, including the LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001. Featuring a stunning forest green dial and a 40mm 18K yellow gold case, this new model is powered by the highly regarded Calibre 96.01-L movement.


When evaluating the 2022 watch, it was very similar to the 1997 model. However, this family similarity is more like father and son than gene cloning. The hour and minute hands are in the dauphine-fusée style, a derivative of the original dauphine style from 1997. This is not the first time Chopard has used dauphine-fusée style hands. In fact, they have been part of the brand’s design language for years.

The hours are indicated by conical facet markers, similar to the 1997 model, but using Arabic numerals to indicate midnight. The index at 6 o’clock is truncated to make room for the date display, which is presented with white numerals on a forest green disc. There is an overwhelming sense of integrity to this model. For example, Chopard could have saved a few Swiss francs to fit a white or black disc with a one-size-fits-all approach, however, as horological etiquette dictates, it indulges purists with a matching date disc.

The hand-guilloché process in the center of the dial showcases the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship. The dial is not adorned with studs of Paris or Ogre, but enriched with a honeycomb pattern, a specialty of the brand. Finally, a chemin de fer rounds out the display, bringing impressive clarity to the dial. copy Chopard Alpine Eagle Watch


As mentioned, Chopard has chosen 18K gold for the LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial. This infuses the watch with a slightly retro look that pairs perfectly with the rich green landscape that takes center stage.

Consistent with several other LUC references, the case is a perfect blend of highly polished and vertically satin-brushed surfaces. The latter finish softens the shimmering gold, deftly sidestepping any excesses.

There is a button labeled LUC on the vertical side of the crown. With a single press, the hinged cover on the rear of the watch opens to reveal the aforementioned movement. The inside of the cover is engraved with the honeycomb, the former brand logo and the words “Chopard Manufacture” and “LUC”. The outside of the lid is decorated with the brand’s honeycomb pattern, which is beautifully hand-guilloché.

Since opening Chopard Manufacture, the premium brand has deftly delivered innovation while respecting its loyal customers by adopting a consistent approach to design. If the Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is placed next to the 1997 Chopard LUC 1860, it is clear that the two watches share a lot of the same genetic code. This approach is always evolutionary rather than revolutionary, which will no doubt resonate with many purists.

The styling of the new Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is timeless. It doesn’t shout wealth like some nouveau riche watches. Rather, it’s the horological equivalent of a soft-spoken gentleman in a tailored slouchy suit, conducting his business in a dignified manner. Open the hinged lid and you’ll notice the brains of the watch, perfectly developed, hidden from view but beautifully executed. This watch knows how to express itself in any situation and has incredible intelligence. However, this is no surprise to me. After all, Chopard has demonstrated these qualities many times since the introduction of the LUC 1.96.

Technical Specifications

Model: Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial
Reference: 161242-0001
Case: Ethical 18 karat yellow gold, diameter 40.0 mm, height 7.70 mm, sapphire crystal front and case back protected by crown-activated hinged lids
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, stop seconds
Movement: LUC 96.01-L, self-winding, 28,800 vph (4Hz); 29 jewels, 65-hour power reserve, Observatory Certified (COSC), Seal of Geneva
Bracelet: Hand-stitched brown alligator leather strap, green alligator leather lining, 18-karat gold pin buckle

zelin0802 / August 10, 2022

Richard Mille RM 038 Tourbillon Bubba Watson

As I type, Bubba Watson leads the Farmers Insurance Open PGA Championship in San Diego. [Update: He continues to win. ] This year, Bubba joined Rafael Nadal and Felipe Massa as Richard Miller ambassadors. The Bubba is the longest driver on the PGA Tour, and if you’re wondering if it’s safe to wear a tourbillon while golfing, the Bubba will prove you can wear it for RM 038. Find prices and interior pictures.

Bubba is one of the rare professional golfers who likes to wear a watch or bracelet while playing. This, combined with his reputation as a big hand, makes him an ideal candidate to test the RM 038 in real-world conditions. Given the demands of gaming, Richard Mille designed this watch with a focus on lightness, extreme shock resistance and comfort. The RM 038 is created for golfers and athletes who love haute horology, who need a rare and unique timepiece that can withstand extreme conditions.

The RM 038 case measures 48mm x 39.70mm x 12.80mm. Internally, the baseplate, bridges and balance bridge of the RM 038 movement are made of grade 5 titanium. This creates a strong, rigid platform with precise surface flatness for optimal gear train function.

The RM 038 tourbillon movement features a fast-rotating barrel that significantly reduces the periodic sticking of the inner mainspring, thereby increasing performance. In addition, it provides an excellent mainspring triangle with ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratios. In addition to the central involute profile of the barrel teeth and the third wheel pinion, an optimum pressure angle of 20° is provided. This promotes efficient rotational movement and allows compensation of possible changes in the meshing of the running train, ensuring excellent torque transfer and a noticeable improvement in performance.

The RM 038 case is made of a strong, lightweight alloy called magnesium-aluminum AZ91. This alloy is composed of 90% magnesium and 8.9% aluminum. Magnesium has a density of 1,74 g/cm3, which means it is one of the lightest metals used in construction. After a long and delicate machining phase, the alloy undergoes an electric plasma oxidation treatment called Titalyt II. The white color of the case is due to this treatment: it is a crystalline oxide ceramic with a high proportion of high-strength composite materials such as MgAl2O4 spinel. This increases the hardness and scratch resistance of the alloy, as well as its wear and corrosion resistance. This treatment applied to magnesium aluminum is biocompatible. It is used in the aerospace, automotive industry and medical fields. wholesale copy watches

The tripartite case is water-resistant to 50 meters, secured by two nitrile O-rings. The case is assembled with 12 grade 5 titanium alloy spline screws and 316L stainless steel wear washers.


Tonneau case – numbered limited edition – in AZ91 magnesium alloy.

CALIBER RM038: Manual winding tourbillon with hours and minutes.

Dimensions: 48mm x 39.70mm x 12.80mm.

main feature

power reserve
about 48 hours.

variable inertia
, Free Spring Balance Free Spring Balance provides better reliability in the event of shock, motion assembly and disassembly. It also guarantees better timing results over longer periods of time.

Barrel pawl with progressive recoil
The device allows a winding gain (approximately 20 %), especially at the beginning of the winding. It also contributes to the distribution of tension within the mainspring.

Other features
– Movement dimensions: 30.60mm x 29.37mm
– Thickness: 7.55mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 10.90 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 9.12 mm
– Number of gems: 19
– Balance wheel: Glucydur, 2 arms, 4 set screws, moment of inertia 11.50 mg.cm2, rise angle 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
– Hairspring: Elinvar by NIVAROX
– Shock protection: KIF ELASTOR de KE 160 B28
– Nickel-free hour barrel shaft (DIN x 46 Cr13 +S) with the following features: Stainless steel, anti-magnetic, suitable for tempering.

Internal flange
Tiny flanges in white carbon fiber.

Bezel side: Sapphire (1800 Vickers), anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1.20mm
Caseback: Sapphire, anti-glare treatment (both sides)
Thickness: 1mm center, 1.73mm outer edge


– Microblasted grade 5 titanium
Baseplates and bridges – hand chamfered and polished
– Sapphire sandblasted and milled sections
– Straight textured polishing of the upper surface
– Polished sink

steel parts
– Sapphire sandblasted surface
– Satin polished surface
– Hand chamfering and polishing
– the upper surface
Straight Texture Polishing – Straight texture polishing of the upper surface
– Polished sink

Contour turning
– Grind and polished ends
– Polished pivots

– Concave chamfering with diamond tools
– round finish surface
– Rhodium plating (before cutting teeth)
– Minimal wheel revisions to maintain geometry and performance

zelin0802 / August 9, 2022

complication guru Franck Muller

As the exclusive UK distributor Franck Muller we are very excited to introduce new models in 2021. All mechanical watchmaking complications invented by Franck Muller are designed and developed at the heart of their own workshop. From the simple sketch of a world-first mechanism to the execution of the plan, every stage of watchmaking is tracked to its successful completion.

The Grand Central Tourbillon is a striking new collection with the tourbillon in focus, at the center of the timepiece. One of the complications of the collection was that we had to completely rethink the watch to move the tourbillon from its original 6 o’clock position to the center of the watch. In addition, the designers and watchmakers of Franck Muller had to find an innovative way to place the hour and second hands around the tourbillon cage to accentuate the beauty of the piece.

Frank Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton
The three-axis tourbillon of the new Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton corrects for gravity in all positions. This intricate frame system is a technological marvel and one of the most complex creations in haute horlogerie. Featuring a stunning skeletonized movement, this watch stylishly showcases skeletonized bridges, allowing you to observe one of the most beautiful mechanisms of all timepieces.

Franck Muller Pioneer Racing Skeleton
The VanguardTM Racing Skeleton sails in a sporty direction with its automotive-inspired lines, demanding a pure and stylish engine aesthetic. With its harmonious silhouette, impeccable craftsmanship and impeccably balanced proportions, this movement is skeletonized to create elegance alongside its sporty character.

With its harmonious silhouette, impeccable craftsmanship and impeccably balanced proportions, Vanguard Crazy HoursTM Yachting combines boldness and creativity with Franck Muller’s extraordinary Haute Horlogerie technology. The pinnacle of the Crazy Hours complication, it has captivated watch lovers over the years. With its unique handmade numerals, Vanguard Crazy HoursTM Yachting ensures a firm hold on the Franck Muller tradition with a youthful and futuristic aesthetic.

Vanguard Rose Skeleton combines harmonious design with intelligent development. The technicality of the collection lies in the research that makes the rose essential to a mechanism with a skeletonized dial. Here, the flowers are not ornaments placed on the movement, they are cut from the bridges and baseplates to connect the mechanical movement together. They are an essential aesthetic decoration for timepieces. replica watches online

Frank Muller CIELO
The new Cielo collection affirms Franck Muller’s mastery of the art of watchmaking in the purest tradition. Purity and sober design are the guiding principles of the collection. The Cielo dial is crafted from natural blue aventurine, a semi-precious stone with a shimmering effect that gives it a sparkling effect. The name of the collection is inspired by the deep blue color of aventurine stone, reminiscent of the color of the night sky, while the shimmering minerals recall the stars.

Franck Muller GALET Moon Phase
A poetic complication, the moon phase, naturally finds its place at 6 o’clock to harmoniously complete the Galet collection. Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, this mysterious and fascinating timepiece complication displays the different cycles of the moon we see in the sky on a guilloche dial. The shape of the design is absolutely unprecedented, paying homage to simplicity and evoking calm and well-being. With its gentle angles, it is reminiscent of the smooth flow that nature is formed by the action of water.

Franck Muller GALET Moon Phase
Double Mystery Peony highlights the virtuosity of diamond setting, combining technical innovation and mechanical sophistication. The collection features an innovative time display system that makes the Double Mystery watch so successful: the hands are replaced by two rotating discs, each with an arrow-shaped indicator. The invention represented the successful mastering of a technical challenge and was patented in 1998.

zelin0802 / August 8, 2022

Watch the movie Brad Pitt wearing a platinum Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Reissue of Bullet Train

This heavy, vintage-inspired platinum fake watch comes in handy in our watch-related movies this week.

In the new, ridiculous action movie Bullet Train, Brad Pitt plays a contract criminal who gets a briefcase full of $10 million by doing a simple snatch job. Yes, the case is on a bullet train.

Pete received contemporaneous instructions over the phone from his manager, and his job was to get on the bus at one stop, pick up the goods, and get off at the next stop. Given that this is a movie – like Kill Bill meets a kung fu hoax – I’m sure you can guess that there are no plans. Instead, Pete has to face a train full of criminals, all of whom unknowingly get caught up in an impossibly intertwined scene.

As a result, the only thing left to do is to fight each other mercilessly on the moving train. Pete is serious in this film and wears a precious metals retro revival of the blue-chip indie watch brand.

why are we watching
Today marks the opening day of the highly anticipated action comedy, directed by Pitt’s former stuntman David Leitch (as vividly as the Once Upon a Time in Hollywood plot is). I had the opportunity to attend an early screening and I had a great time. If you’re nervous about spurting blood, this one probably isn’t for you. However, if you like a good show on a watch on screen, and can manage to avoid some very intense (and often hilarious) over-the-top violence, in order to see said watch, I suggest you check this out.

Pitt plays Ladybug (codename, not real name – it’s the kind of movie where everyone has a codename). He is a hired thief/potential assassin who finds himself in hand-to-hand combat with other teams of assassins he has encountered in other jobs in the past. I won’t spoil why they find themselves together on this train, but let’s just say they don’t necessarily get along, and Ladybug is involved in some well-choreographed scenes that perfectly balance action and humor.

Is this a great movie? No, but it’s a quintessential summer popcorn movie — and one that’s even better because Ladybugs do all those ass kicks in a special Breitling retro revival.

Released in 2021, the Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-edition is a (shockingly) modern re-edition of the 1953 vintage Breitling watch, a complete vintage-meets-modern watch. We spent a week on the wrist with the steel variant of this model last year, and our very own Cole Pennington had some interesting things to say when comparing the new watch to the OG on which it’s based. “If the ’53 models were NOS [old and new stock] and hadn’t aged a day, I would have a hard time distinguishing them,” he wrote. “Even the difference in weight between watches is difficult to discern.”

Now, Pete chose the watch to wear in the movie, but he didn’t opt ​​for any changes. He became a movie star and opted for a platinum model with a blue dial. Only Pitt can strap a platinum vintage reissue watch to his wrist, make a creepy action movie, and make it look ordinary. Speaking of straps, he even swapped its leather strap for a stronger Breitling strap.

I know what you’re all thinking, “Come on, Danny, Brad Pitt is a Breitling ambassador! It’s just product placement.” Well, you’re right, Pitt is a Breitling ambassador. In fact, more specifically, he was a member of the Breitling film squad, working alongside Adam Driver and Charlize Theron. But you know what? Who cares, because Pete can easily wear whatever old watch Breitling wants him to wear. Maybe something more modern, maybe something the brand has a strong interest in selling. But that’s not what happened here. Instead, he chose the most esoteric version of a super-specific retro remake and made it part of his role in the film. Just because he’s paid for by a brand doesn’t mean the choice can’t be thoughtful. reviews aaa quality watches

He wears this watch throughout the movie. It’s always visible, although the amount of combat makes it difficult to laser light it at some point. The best part is that the movie features a close-up watch of the hero shots, which is probably the best I’ve seen in recent memory. It’s the kind of shot you can pause, frame, and hang on the wall if you want (though I’d also find it odd to do so).

Personally, I like the selection of Ladybug watches. He plays a somewhat indifferent character. A criminal who has recently undergone some soul searching and therapy and wants to improve his mental health while continuing to operate in the criminal underworld. Who knows if some big score in his past gave him a briefcase full of cash to go out and buy this platinum Breitling, or if it should represent an antique watch that may have been passed down to him. In either case, it looks very good. I mean, what can’t Brad Pitt accomplish?

when we are watching
Halfway through the film, Ladybug encounters an assassin named Orange (played by Aaron Taylor-Johnson) on a train. The two immediately get into hand-to-hand combat as Tangerine knows Ladybug is looking for the same briefcase he was looking for. They fought through various train cars until they reached the dining car. While hitting, kicking, and throwing objects, the pair were interrupted by a train worker who needed food. Staff did not notice the fight before she entered, asking if they wanted something to eat or drink. Ladybug gleefully asks for a bottle of water, and as he does, we can see the ’53 Re-Edition on his wrist. He continued to drink said water until she left, at which point…they fought again.

Later, Ladybug makes contact with another assassin, and a big fight ensues. Notice the theme here? After the fight, I definitely won’t spoil it, the ladybug is a little anxious, hiding on the floor of the train with a paper bag in hand. We can see the Breitling fake and its leather strap very clearly on his wrist as he tries to breathe and exhale the pressure. As you might expect, this won’t be his last fight.

zelin0802 / August 5, 2022


Speaking of this year’s new copy Rolex products, you must first think of the “left-handed” Greenwich II, which is vividly called “Sprite Circle” by watch friends because of its green and black outer ring. Highly recognizable, it is undoubtedly the blockbuster of the year. On the other hand, the new Airmaster with added crown guard bridge is also highly popular. It upgrades the movement and appearance to enhance its sports attributes and further moves closer to Rolex professional watches. In addition, the women’s log-shaped flower plate, the 18K gold yacht, and the platinum ice blue DD have all received a lot of exposure. However, among the new products, the presence of the new ghost king Ref.136660 is very low, not only the forum is rarely discussed by friends, but even the official did not write news materials for it. We also learned about its information from the quietly updated details page. It can be said that it is the most low-key new product of Rolex this year. Unlike Airmaster’s iterative product, which was upgraded from the 31-series movement to the 32-series movement, in fact, the Ghost King Ref.126660 released in 2018 has been equipped with the Cal.3235 movement. The 2022 Ghost King has not changed the movement model, and still uses the Cal.3235 movement. It is more based on the fine-tuning of the appearance. The following is a summary of the upgrade points of this new product based on the information released by foreign media.

From the front, the most significant upgrade of the new ghost king is the calendar window. It has a larger display area, allowing the wearer to read the date clearly. We know that Rolex uses a convex lens calendar display window for both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller. This design originated from the Datejust type and has now become one of the iconic elements of Rolex. However, among many Rolex diving watches, only the ghost king did not add a convex lens calendar display window. The reason is that the convex lens calendar window is not integrally formed, but is bonded by two pieces of sapphire glass through a special process. The waterproof level of the Ghost King is 3900 meters, and the pressure during deep diving is several times that of an ordinary diving watch. Therefore, in order to ensure stability, the Ghost King upgrades the calendar window only to increase the display area, rather than using a convex lens window.

The second upgrade of Ref.136660 is the bezel. The ceramic outer ring of the new ghost king has become more slender, which can improve the exquisiteness of the watch to a certain extent. At the same time, the brand has also optimized the rotation mechanism of the outer ring, and the new product has a better rotating feel. The mirror is also one of the upgrade points. The sapphire mirror with reflective coating can effectively resist strong light refraction and make reading more clear.

The luminous effect has also been optimized. Early Rolex watches all used Super-LumiNova luminous, which is currently the most mainstream luminous material. However, Rolex, which was produced after 2008, stopped the use of Super-LumiNova and changed it to the brand-exclusive Chromalight luminous. Chromaligh has a longer glow time and a stable level of light. The 2022 Ghost King Ref.136660 adopts the latest generation of Chromaligh luminous solution, and its luminous duration and brightness are improved compared with the previous generation of Chromaligh luminous.

After reading the front, let’s talk about the changes of the bottom cover. In the old Ref.126660, the black “ROLEX OYSTER DEEPSEA ♕ SEA-DWELLER 12800 ft = 3900 m” is surrounded by the edge of the titanium case back to indicate the series to which the watch belongs and its water resistance. In the bottom cover of the new Ref.136660, this material has an exclusive name: “RLX titanium alloy”.

However, with regard to the new Ghost King Ref.136660, no real pictures have been seen at home and abroad, and more details about this product have yet to be confirmed. In fact, Ghost King has not been highly recognized among players for a long time, which is not only reflected in the product market share, but also directly reflected in the secondary market. It is true that the 44mm watch diameter and the case thickness of more than 17mm are not friendly to the general body of Asians, which means that the ghost king has not been as universal as a water ghost since its birth. It is a work prepared by a few watch friends, so it is reasonable for the brand to upgrade its low-key.

zelin0802 / August 3, 2022

Patek Philippe World Time 5231J Watch

The groundbreaking world timepiece updated in 2019, the fake Patek Philippe World Time Reference. The 5231J is an almost impossible piece of horological art to buy.

Patek Philippe World Time Reference. New for 2019, the 5231J sits alongside the existing 5231, with a platinum case and matching platinum rice bead bracelet, defining the pinnacle of understated decadence. The 5231J features a yellow gold case of 38.5mm wide and 10.23mm high, slightly smaller than the 39.5mm wide 5231. This is the same case on the 5230 World Chronograph, which is easier to work with because their central dial has a finer guilloche pattern than the enamel. The smaller 38.5mm wide case is preferable, though, as it lacks the inscription “Patek Philippe” on the bezel at 12 o’clock and “Genève” at 6 o’clock. I just don’t think contemporary tastes gravitate towards bezel engraving (or well-designed fonts, for that matter).

Several people have correctly pointed out how 5231J is reminiscent of an extremely rare Ref. 2523, introduced in the mid-1950s, perhaps a Patek Philippe World Time watch. Notably, the winglet lugs and polished flat bezel you’ll see on this case were introduced in 2016 with the 5230 World Chronograph. This is a big year for world time watches due to changes in global governments such as Moscow. UTC+4 to UTC+3 and a global shift in power resulted in a new city in one time zone (Dubai replacing Riyadh is one of them). prices of PP watches

Enamel dial
The 5231J features a cloisonné enamel astronomical sphere in the center of the dial. Cloisonne is one of the four enamel processes used by Patek Philippe. The process involves taking a thin gold wire and bending it into the shape of the intended design. The wires are then fastened to the base plate coated with an enamel layer. After the cells formed from the wire are filled with enamel, the process then involves multiple firings, depending on the specific color and effect they are trying to achieve.

The enamel center depicts Europe, Africa and the Americas with a range of greens, browns and yellows, as well as blue representing water. When you see it up close and personal, it’s definitely a work of art. In the center of the enamel dial are (rather short) circular hour and toffee hands in 18k yellow gold. As you might guess, using short, polished gold hands on such a rich enamel background hinders legibility. I’d say it’s an unfortunate side effect inherent in this watch, but I wouldn’t argue with anyone who thinks the circular hour hand is an unforced error.

world time function
Along the outer ring are the names of 24 cities, each representing a time zone. At 10 o’clock, you’ll see the pushers move the time forward an hour when engaged (the minute hand is unaffected), as well as the city and 24-hour rings. The red arrow at the 12 o’clock position will point to the city corresponding to your time zone. Granted, you don’t get the precision increments that would allow a second time zone indicator of 30 or 45 minutes (there are 37 time zones around the world when you consider those), but the ease and elegance of the operation here is world-class. swiss copy Patek

Let’s not kid ourselves: a Patek Philippe World Time watch is one of those things that only Logan Roy from Succession doesn’t get knocked down — though perhaps he’ll be more impressed, “It tells you how rich you are at 24 in a time zone, Instead of licking the boots of future son-in-law Tom Wambsgans’ surprisingly cringe-worthy line, “It’s pretty accurate in telling you how rich you are,” when presenting the Patek Philippe.

The 5231J uses a Calibre 240 HU (for all Globeheads, that’s the Heure Universelle), which consists of 239 parts, including a 22k gold rotor, and the 240 HU has a power reserve of 48 hours. What’s really remarkable about the 240 HU is that it’s extremely thin, only 3.88mm thick, which is achieved through a patented design that allows the winding rotor to be integrated with the bridge plate. By comparison, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 WT (there are several, including the Overseas World Time 7700V) is 7.55mm thick and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 772 (Geophysical Time) is 7.13mm thick. As for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra WorldTimer, I’m not quite sure about the thickness of the movement, but I know the case is 15.5mm thick.

zelin0802 / August 2, 2022

Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon

Resist the urge to draw parallel lines between Mssr. Miller’s business model and the plot of the Emperor’s New Clothes, let’s take a look at this watch that sells for the equivalent of eating at the world’s most expensive restaurant with 459 of your closest friends. . .

The highlight here is the big-name player – Spanish tennis ace Rafael Nadal. A decade ago, Miller struck a sponsorship deal with Lafite. The exact terms of the deal are unclear, but the Swiss watchmaker is sure to pick a winner. Make it a winner. Wikipedia:

Nadal has won 19 Grand Slam singles titles, the second-most titles by a male player in history, as well as 35 ATP Tour Masters 1000 titles, 21 ATP Tour 500 titles and the 2008 Olympic singles gold medal and 2016 Olympic singles gold medal. Olympic singles gold medal. Doubles.

In the majors, Nadal has won a record twelve French Open titles, four US Open titles, two Wimbledon titles and one Australian Open title, and has won at least one each year for ten consecutive years (2005-2014). Grand Slam champion. Nadal has won a total of 85 career titles, including the most outdoor titles in the Open Era (83) and a record 59 clay-court titles.

To upgrade the Nadal watch racket, Mille’s men mastered the art of turning a watch into a tennis racket.

The Richard Mille RM 27-04 ditched the PC-less but more nostalgic option of using a catgut, relying on 0.27mm steel cables to hold the movement in place. The tourbillon-driven motor is attached to the cable via five gold-colored titanium hooks. Hand weaving net machine can withstand shocks exceeding 12,000 Gs.

Like all his watches, the RM 27-04 has more sleeves than Transformers, including a TitaCarb® case (high tensile strength), a fast-turning barrel (ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio), Tourbillon dampers (to damp tourbillon vibrations), nitrile rubber O-rings (to stop the shuttle from exploding) and barrel pawls with progressive recoil (to lure the wealthy Bernie brothers).

Legibility isn’t a big factor, those fire-engine red Wankel engine rotors compete with similarly-colored hands and tiny triangular indexes for attention.

It’s ok. Mille used his bones to create watches, to Patek Philippe what Formula 1 was to the Auburn Boattail Speedster.

That said, an F1 car needs all of these technologies to go faster. Mille’s club’s sandwich-thick tech farragos end up doing better than a quartz Seiko — let alone a Citizen Satellite Wave GPS or Apple Watch.

The Richard Mille RM 27-04 is different from this cheesy wholesale watch fare. Like Patek Philippe, Mille stakes its demands on customers’ cash on itself with its sophistication, build quality, and exclusivity above all other factors.

The real question about RM 27-04: Mssr. Is it ok? Miller sells fifty? Should he?…

zelin0802 / August 1, 2022

Top 5 Subdials Watches For Men To Consider

Sometimes one of the most challenging things about collecting a watch is finding a watch that fits your wrist. While some people have big wrists that can handle watches of all sizes, the same cannot be said for everyone. Of course, not all of us have wrists like Arnold Schwarzenegger’s or Sylvester Stallone’s, who can easily strap on any Panerai of their choice and call it a day. So some of us need to be more careful about the watches we pick and how big their cases and dials are. So we wanted to explore 5 of the best watches men can choose from that are on the small side while offering everything a luxury watch should.

rolex explorer 36mm
To start our list is probably one of the most iconic field watches on the market, the Rolex Explorer. Originally a watch made for traversing mountains, the Explorer was built with a 36mm case from the start, based on its legibility requirements as a sports watch. In the early 1950s it was quite large at 36mm in diameter, but it didn’t get bigger until the 39mm ref. The 214670 was introduced in 2010 and was subsequently discontinued and replaced by the Explorer ref in 2021. 124670, which reintroduces the 36mm case to the Explorer family. Explorer ref. The 124670 is undoubtedly one of the best men’s subdials watches, and its integrity as a true luxury sports watch is impeccable.

Rolex Datejust 36mm
Another iconic timepiece for men to consider if they don’t want to wear a big watch is the Rolex Datejust in its original 36mm configuration. Originally introduced as a 36mm timepiece in 1945, it was also quite large at the time, so it remained unchanged until 2009. While the larger 41mm variant was introduced in 2009 as the Datejust II, the 36mm variant has never been discontinued and is therefore the most iconic and time-honored silhouette in watchmaking. Perfectly balanced after decades of production, the 36mm Rolex Datejust is one of the best watches on the market if they want a watch that is both iconic and equipped with the best Rolex has to offer Men, they can consider. Sporty when you need it, always classy and suitable for any occasion, the log can go anywhere and do anything.

Rolex Day-Date 36mm
Much like the Rolex Datejust 36mm, the Rolex Day-Date is another timepiece that entered production as a 36mm model and has been relatively unchanged since then. While 40mm and 41mm variants have come and gone, the 36mm variant is the most classic, traditional and steadfast, produced from Day-Date’s first reference, ref. 6510. Perfectly sized as the Datejust, the Day-Date is Rolex’s flagship timepiece, taking the Datejust’s classic aesthetic to make it more formal and unique. The Explorer takes the Datejust’s design and makes it sportier, while the Day-Date does the opposite, creating a watch fit for presidents, royalty and diplomats.

Tudor Black Bay 36mm
Leaving Rolex but staying in the family, we have one of the most popular timepieces on the market today, the Tudor Black Bay. Launched in 2012, Black Bay marked the re-emergence of Tudor in the diving watch world. Built to last, the Black Bay is a rugged and functional diver’s watch that blends stainless steel construction with a refined aesthetic in perfect harmony, flying under the radar or paired with a strap for a unique look Temperament and personality. Available in a variety of sizes, the 36mm model is an excellent choice for anyone looking to get away from the bulky timepieces we’ve seen time and time again.

Cartier Tank
From the Rolex Group, we explore Cartier, the famous French jeweler and watchmaker. While almost all of Cartier’s timepieces prefer smaller dial and case designs than most other watchmakers, almost all of them can be The Cartier Tank is the perfect watch for anyone who wants to wear a smaller dial. Available in a variety of sizes from less than 22mm wide to over 31mm wide, the tanks have everything. Iconic due to its unique rectangular profile, rich history and stunning looks, Tank could be perfect for the gentleman who wants a luxury watch that looks great in a smaller configuration timepiece. Thanks to its rectangular profile, the Tank looks incredible as a smaller watch and can easily be worn no matter the size of its owner’s wrist.

zelin0802 / July 25, 2022

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Titanium

Back in 2015, the GMT Black paved the way for the GMT Sport. Building on this, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey invented and launched a lightweight and ultra-strong profiled titanium case with an oval bezel and integrated lugs , to showcase the new movement. The new case looks perfectly round from above, while showing off the prominent arches and ovals from other angles. Thanks to the unique functional form, the integrated lugs and strap fit perfectly on any wrist. Greubel Forsey values ​​are engraved on the outer ring of the satin bezel in relief. Arched bridges and sloping gear trains showcase the new movement architecture.

The focus of the sporty GMT Sport is legibility and efficiency. Hours and minutes are indicated by concentric skeletonized hands whose curvilinear contours follow the curvature of the case and movement. The gear train is mounted on a suspended arched central bridge with black treated openings, following the curve of the bridge, overlooking the globe to drive the hour and minute hands. The triangular tips of the arrow-shaped hands and the markers on the minute ring are coated with a luminous coating. The subdial between 10 and 11 o’clock combines the small seconds on a large rotating disc and a second time zone display with hands. The 72-hour power reserve (guaranteed by two coaxial barrels in series) is shown on a sector at 3 o’clock, with its skeletonized hands and a highlighted red triangle. The power-reserve differential under the arched bridges is subtly engraved with Greubel Forsey values.

The 24-second tourbillon is located at 1 o’clock, and its unique and highly polished tourbillon bridge has a black-finish opening. Already the third fundamental invention of Greubel Forsey in the field of tourbillons (after the 30° double and quadruple tourbillons), its cage is inclined at 25° and can complete a full revolution in 24 hours. The higher speed combined with the innovative frame inclination significantly improves the timekeeping performance of the single tourbillon system.

Back in 2011, Greubel Forsey fake introduced the remarkable GMT mechanism. In this dual-patented mechanism, the second time zone display between 10 and 11 o’clock on the secondary dial combines with the universal time display to visually read the current time anywhere in the world. The spectacular sight of the Earth Rotating Globe completes each full counterclockwise rotation in 24 hours. It is surrounded by a sapphire crystal ring with a 24-hour index. Thus, the wearer can read local time at all longitudes, including day/night indicators. On the back side of the GMT Sport, the outer and central rings form the sapphire city disc, providing UTC Universal Time and Daylight Saving Time for 24 cities in the main time zones. The disc distinguishes between time zones where daylight saving time is applied and time zones where daylight saving time is not applied. The GMT functions are controlled by two buttons located on the left side of the case.

The new GMT Sport is available as a limited edition with a black or blue rubber strap. A titanium folding clasp enhances the comfort and ergonomics of this exceptional Greubel Forsey replica watches online.