zelin0802 / March 13, 2023

Richard Mille RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough

The RM 53-01 is the ‘amazing’ new result of Richard Mille’s encounter with one of the best players in the world, Pablo Mac Donough. Dynamic and dynamic, this watch is equipped with a suspended tourbillon movement and is unobstructed through the unprecedented laminated sapphire glass of the Carbon TPT® case.

“Polo is a dangerous game, with heavy impacts. It’s a very elegant game and it’s a contact sport,” explains Richard Mille.
“Given that Pablo has suffered multiple fractures during his career, I asked our team to design a watch that would resist the many types of shocks that occur during polo matches, while leaving the movement visible.”replica swiss watches

Realizing that ordinary glass would not provide the necessary resistance to the blow of a mallet, the brand’s engineers teamed up with world-renowned sapphire specialist Stettler to produce laminated glass inspired by current practice in the automotive sector. This glass is made of polyethylene film The use of a glass consisting of two separate pieces of sapphire glass constitutes a first in the horological world. Faced with the intense shock wave from a mallet strike, the glass will crack, but not shatter. This glass has an anti-reflective and UV coating that protects the movement from the external environment and is a patent-pending Richard Mille exclusive.

Embellished with notches that reinforce its structural integrity, the case is machined from Carbon TPT®, an exceptionally tough and virtually indestructible protection known for its exceptional resistance to micro-cracks and tears. The inlaid luster characteristic of Carbon TPT® and the sharp lines of the case emphasize the particularly sporty character of this replica mens watch.

Richard Mille’s solution to the external impact of the tourbillon was to suspend the movement with cables. The atypical architecture of this design requires the creation of two separate backplanes. The first or “peripheral” plate is secured to the case and supports the tensioner. The second, known as the “central” plate, is connected by cables to the peripheral plates and incorporates the wheels that make up the movement and winding mechanism.

Like a spider in the middle of a spider’s web, the central baseplate is supported on two braided steel cables with a diameter of only 0.27 mm. These cables outline a three-dimensional structure in their path through 10 pulleys, held in place by 4 tensioners. watchmaker in charge.luxury replica watches

The cables are tensioned by turning the spline screw located in the center of each tensioner. By ensuring evenly distributed tension, this pulley system guarantees perfect balance of the entire mechanism.

The suspended movement and the use of grade 5 titanium (double baseplate and bridges) contribute to increased rigidity while ensuring smooth running of the travel train and optimum shock protection.

RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough in Carbon TPT®.

technical specifications

CALIBER RM53-01: manual winding tourbillon movement with hours and minutes.

Dimensions: 44.50 x 49.94 x 16.15mm.

Power reserve: approx. 70 hours (±10%).

– Movement dimensions: 31.94 x 30.26 mm
– Thickness: 6.35mm
– Tourbillon diameter: 12.40 mm
– Balance wheel diameter: 10.00 mm
– Number of Gems: 19
– Balance: Glucydur®, 2 arms and 4 adjustment screws
– Moment of inertia: 11.50 mg.cm2, lift angle 53°
– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
– Hairspring: elinvar from Nivarox®
– Anti-vibration device: KIF Elastor KE 160 B28
– Nickel-free Chronifer® barrel shaft (DIN x 46 Cr 13 + S) with the following properties: Stainless steel – Anti-magnetic – Suitable for tempering

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zelin0802 / March 8, 2023

The new and captivating Gradient Lamido Ocean Star Tribute

An all-encompassing dive fashion watches, now in summery light blue.

Mido has been particularly active in the past few weeks, starting with the recent release of one of the coolest models ever, the Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, or the rather impressively equipped Multifort M Chronometer. Well, that doesn’t end there, as the brand discreetly revealed a new version of its vintage-inspired dive watch, the Ocean Star Tribute. Already available in a range of glamorous colors – such as this bold ombre red version, or this military-inspired green version – the collection is back with colorful versions ready for this summer. The Mido Ocean Star with a gradient light blue dial pays homage to the latest model.

This watch isn’t particularly new, we’ve seen a lot of changes in the past. But the latest model to join the range is quite attractive, to say the least. Let’s start with a quick reminder, shall we? The Ocean Star Tribute is part of a range of affordable, well-equipped classic dive watches with very good specifications. There’s nothing groundbreaking or above the competition here, and we’re talking a decently sized 200m water-resistant model with a classic design. If you want something stronger and more powerful, the Ocean Star Diver 600 is the one you should be looking for. fashion watches

With its timeless look, 40.5mm diameter and polished steel case with pointed crown guard, the Ocean Star Tribute revives the style of the 1960s with a contemporary twist. Balanced and well proportioned, it features a box-shaped sapphire crystal, thin unidirectional bezel with aluminum insert and 60-minute scale, screw-down crown and caseback, and 20 bar pressure resistance – enough for all recreational diving.

New for this year, the watch comes in a light summer color scheme. In this new version, the bezel is a medium blue, while the dial has a gradient effect from sky blue in the center to the same color as the bezel at the edges. Additionally, the rectangular markers and hands are coated in white Super-LumiNova for a nice contrast against the colored background. An important update, as opposed to the previous version, this gradient blue model has a time and date display and does not have the rather intrusive day-date window of the previous version. This is of course a matter of preference, but I personally think this date-only version is more visually balanced.vintage watches for sale

Inside the chassis, there are no surprises. Like the cool decompression chronograph 1961 or many other watches from the brand, this new dive watch is equipped with the new entry-level movement Powermatic 80 from Swatch Group. An evolution of the ETA 2824, it has a redesigned power train with a slightly slower 3Hz frequency but a much longer power reserve of 80 hours. In addition, it features an antimagnetic Nivachron hairspring. This automatic movement is concealed behind a closed case back.

Technical Specifications – Tribute to the Mido Ocean Star
Case: Diameter 40.50 mm x Height 13.40 mm – stainless steel case, polished – unidirectional steel bezel with medium blue aluminum insert, 60-minute diving scale – screw-down crown, screw-down case back – dome Sapphire crystal – 200m water resistance
Dial: Gradient blue dial with white Super-LumiNova hour-markers with silver outline – metal baton hands with white Super-LumiNova
Movement: Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621) – Automatic – 25 jewels – 25.60 mm – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 80 hours power reserve – Nivachron hairspring, antimagnetic – Hours, minutes, seconds (hacked) and date
Bracelet: Comes with Milanese steel bracelet with sliding clasp and blue tropical rubber with pin clasp
Ref: M026.807.11.041.01

zelin0802 / February 25, 2023

Decoding the RM 07-04, Richard Mille’s extraordinary women’s sports watch.

Richard Mille’s RM 07 collection is the ultimate watch that every stylish woman dreams of. Standing out with an elegant design that conveys a modern air that stands apart from other high-end timepieces, the brand has developed a sports watch for the first time in this collection. Named RM 07-04 Automatic Sport

The Richard Mille brand has strong ties to the world of sport. If anyone is a fan of the brand you probably know that the brand often collaborates with famous athletes such as the great tennis player Rafael Nadal, the best golfer Bubba Watson, whirlwind runner John Blake, racing hands Felipe Massa, etc., many people are not just friends. But also partners and co-creators of watches

To this end, Richard Mille launched the RM 07-04 Automatic Sport women’s watch, joining hands with six outstanding female athletes: Aurora Straus, Margot Laffite, Nelly Korda, Nafi Thiam, Yuliya Levchenko and Ester Ledecká represent six watches.

“We didn’t take a minimalist approach to this design,” says Cecile Guenat, director of creativity and development at Richard Mille. Skeletonized mechanical sports watches, it’s a risk few dare to take. But with this collection we wanted to capture as much beauty as possible with advanced technology.”

The RM 07-04 Automatic Sport took three years to develop due to several challenges. Both are mechanisms in skeletal form that must be pierced to show the parts and still have to actually work. And it’s small. It has to be impact-resistant and, most importantly, it has to be aesthetically pleasing as part of the dial. richard mille nadal replica

Movement CRMA8 movement Hours, minutes, bridges and bridges in grade 5 titanium coated with black PVD. Tested against accelerations of 5,000 g and beautifully polished by micro-blasting. Combining polished and matte and thanks to its small size, it challenges watchmakers to assemble the function selector, which is considered one of the brand’s signatures. Push button made of quartz TPT® at 4 o’clock. With the push of a button the user can select neutral (N), winding (W) or time setting (H) mode, indicated by a slot at 5 o’clock.

Depending on the model, the case is made of Quartz TPT® or Carbon TPT®, a lightweight material. Does not cause allergic reactions Impact-resistant, UV-resistant and durable, it complements black, cream, purple, orange, green and blue for a statement of energy. power and feeling

The RM 07-04 Automatic Sport weighs only 36 grams when paired with a Velcro® strap, making it ideal for everyday wear or participation in sports activities.

zelin0802 / February 11, 2023

The Tudor Pelagos 39: Confident Compromise

A lightweight heavy-duty dive replica watches hot.

Announced with much fanfare last year, the Tudor Pelagos 39 transformed an all-rounder, everyday sports watch into the insect-like specialization of the Pelagos line—which for a decade had been the pinnacle of Tudor dive watch prowess. Downsized, lower-spec, and decidedly more traditional – does Tudor’s newest Diver fail compared to its burly sibling? Or did it succeed by finding a new, broader avenue to reach a less specific audience?

I would argue that yes, it does. At this point, I will come to the last topic about Pelagos 39. I covered the release here, experienced it firsthand here, made a cheeky comparison here, and explained how the 39 was chosen for Hodinkee’s Tool Watch of the Year here. If you’re looking for a mixture of objective understanding and subjective taste for Pelagos 39, I can save you thousands of words of reading. This is a great dive watch. Functional, well made, just the right size, modern, sophisticated, instrumental and totally fit. This is the kind of watch that will make other watches in your collection seem irrelevant. You deserve one, and so should I.

In order not to repeat too much of what I’ve already said, let’s put the specs and siblings aside. The Pelagos 39 is a titanium diver’s watch that measures 39mm wide by 11.8mm thick with a 47mm lug spacing. The strap weighs approximately 107 grams (size not determined) and also comes with a rubber strap. So far, the Pelagos 39 has been offered in a single size, with a black dial and brushed gray/black ceramic with luminous markers. It features a sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, 21mm non-drilled lugs, screw-down crown, closed caseback, and the included titanium bracelet features Tudor’s T-Fit micro-adjustment system. All told, you’re looking at a recent price hike of $4,600 ($4,400 when the above video was shot).

The competition is described below, but the background of the Pelagos 39 is largely set by its earlier siblings, the standard Pelagos three current offerings, all based on a 42mm all-titanium diver’s watch measuring 14.4mm thick with 50mm lugs – Dragging. Available in black, blue or vintage-effect LHD, the original Pelagos is a top-spec 500m diver’s watch with a helium escape valve (HeV), a full matte finish and a self-adjusting bracelet clasp.

Since its original release in 2012 and its evolution into the military-specific FXD, the Pelagos has represented both the flagship of the Tudor dive watch portfolio and – by my measure – one of the absolute best dive watches on the market .

Then, last August, Tudor copy released the new Pelagos 39, which offered an evolution, still in titanium, in a smaller, more wearable form. But these proportions are clearly intended to market Pelagos to a wider and less male audience, but come with technical compromises, including lower water resistance, no HeV, no self-adjusting spring clasp, and less finishing Aspects of ultra-matte execution.

Why were Pelagos 39 made?
So, if you need a recap of previous episodes, here it is. All of these factors set the stage for a watch that surprised and even delighted many, especially when Tudor made it clear that the new Pelagos would not replace the current trio of 500m apex dive watches. An extension of the line, the Pelagos 39 combines the look and aesthetic appeal that made Pelagos so distinctive, with the easy-to-wear joy of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.

As I and many others have said, this is broad market acceptance of Pelagos since the 39 became a reality. A rethink that trades the specificity of full diving for a watch that doesn’t cut corners on the way to being an incredible everyday dive watch. Standard Pelagos have a unique appeal. It’s a bit big for my wrist, both in terms of thickness and, more importantly, lug to lug. Also, it’s a little serious. Especially for someone like me who is at best a recreational diver.

Pelagos can feel like too much if you don’t dive at all. I think of the Pelagos 39 as Tudor’s casual alternative to traditional dive watches combined with Pelagos. The specs and size don’t really detract from its ability to be a good dive watch, but the compromise makes it less hardcore than standard Pelagos. That’s the point. If you’ve ever thought that Pelagos were awesome and a little special at the same time, the Pelagos 39 makes sense.

A modern creation from Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is only available in a no-date configuration, powered by the brand’s MT5400 automatic movement. This is a COSC-certified chronometer movement with a 70-hour power reserve and a frequency of 4 Hz. Backed by a five-year warranty, it’s the same movement we use in watches like our beloved Black Bay 925.

After months of thinking about it, I’ve come up with a metaphor that I think makes sense, but might upset some people. The Pelagos 39 is for the dad (or mom) diver. for luxury watches replica

On one of my favorite Youtube automotive channels, The Straight Pipes, hosts Jakub and Yuri have a term for a car that is both good and attractive, but not the highest performance specification for a given model. They call it “Daddy Fast”. The idea is that the car is quick enough to feel fun and powerful, but not for someone who wants to do a few laps around the track and shave a tenth. I kind of think of Pelagos 39 in a similar way.

Leaving aside the gendered nature of “Dad” (shoutout to Pelagos Mom), the standard Pelagos are a great choice if you dive a lot and like to have a really great dive watch with more specs than you need. But what if, like me, you dive a lot less than you used to because you have kids and work? Heck, what if you don’t dive at all, but you love the raw power and casual allure of the form? That’s where the Pelagos 39 fits in. It’s not an RS4 or a GT3, it’s an S4 or a Carrera T.

Sure, it’s a compromise of general practicality, but it still beats having a full minivan and just buying an Apple Watch, doesn’t it?

Please accept – the part about the Pelagos, not the stupid attack on the almighty Apple Watch – as I meant it. Simple compliments for making a rugged watch that is just as relevant while diving as it is on land. When you’re not on vacation. When you are at home, live your life.

How is it worn on the wrist?
I’ve said this a few times, but for my 7″ wrist the Pelagos 39 are basically perfect. You’ll need to adjust the size and settings of the T-Fit, but it’s light, lays flat, and fits really well on the bracelet, which tapers to 16mm at the clasp. I found myself loving the bracelet more than the rubber that came with it, and of course, I fell in love with the NATO Pelagos 39.

The T-Fit system is quick and easy to adjust and offers wide enough increments to manage any wrist swelling I’m experiencing. No, I don’t like the T-Fit more than the OG Pelagos clasp, but given the diminished focus on diving, I think the T-Fit fits the shorts and works just fine.

I’ve also found that the Pelagos 39 can be used with various other straps, the only possible hindrance is the 21mm lug size, which is a pain, but also means I can share the strap with my Mido Ocean Star GMT Hodinkee LE ( This is also 21 mm). Do I want both to be 20? Deeply, yes. But when it comes to the Pelagos 39 specifically, this is one of the few watches that I might actually like the bracelet on. It just feels complete.

The legibility is excellent, the bezel is smooth and feels great, and the simpler dial design, without the complicated rehaut, date and additional writing of other Pelagos, gives the watch a more traditional feel. This is only backed up by the red name and the iconic Tudor snowflake hands.

I can’t mention the redecoration and text without mentioning one of the 39’s biggest aesthetic changes, the brushed ceramic bezel insert swapping the original’s matte finish for a shinier finish that definitely doesn’t feel Pelgagos. Face to face and on the wrist, it’s a big change and I’ll say that while I definitely prefer the all-matte finish of the original model, I’m impressed with the bezel of the 39, which definitely adds a unique character.

If wear resistance ranks high on your watch buying priorities, and I think it should, the Pelagos 39 is definitely worth a try.

zelin0802 / February 7, 2023

U-Boat U-42 Bronze and Black Titanium Ref. 6947

Last week we introduced the U-Boat U-51 Chimera Bronze Edition. We decided to do a weekly U-Boat review and we chose this U-Boat U-42 B&B Ref 6947 as our second watch to review.

The case parts of this large 53mm U-42 (referring to the year that Italo Fontana’s (CEO) grandfather founded the company, not the size of the watch of course) are made of black-coated titanium. However, the size of 53mm does not seem to be anything special, just ordinary big.

But if you’ve ever met one of the Fratellos, you’ll know we’re not skinny and short. So we might not be that picture perfect reference when it comes to wrist size and talking about comfortable watches. Regardless, we think it’s fine on the wrist. If you’re interested in a 53mm U-boat, be sure to give it a try.

Anyway, size aside, we would say that the main aspect of this Italian timepiece that stands out is the matte black case combined with bronze details. Bronze & Black titanium is also a “working title” which makes perfect sense. The contrast is great, which is good for its readability. The crown, hook pin, bezel screws, bezel release lever and small numbered plate on the side of the case (limited to 300 pieces) are all in bronze. The hands are only available in bronze, as we’re guessing bronze is too heavy for the hands and (eventually) will cause dissatisfaction with the center pinion.

The dial, like the recently reviewed U-51 Chimera Bronze, has a two-layer design, one bronze and one black, for excellent visibility.

We love the level of detail on these next-gen U-Boat fake watches, but we also think some parts are a little overdone. Like mentioning three times that this watch is number 42 out of 300. We like the numbered versions (instead of – as we’ve seen on some IWC’s – 50 cases engraved with “One of 50”) but 3x 42/300 doesn’t make sense. But maybe that exaggeration does serve a purpose for the average U-Boat enthusiast.

The reverse side of the black titanium case shows the bezel release lever and the U-42 model name embossed. To prevent the bi-directional bezel from turning while diving (or otherwise rely on it), you first need to pull the lever to do so. Small bronze dots on the bezel show the exact minutes (15 – 30 – 45) of each quarter, and 00 (or 60) is a black polished pearl dot.

The back of the case is all black and there is no transparent bottom cover. Instead, there are some interesting engravings on the solid black caseback. replica watches for sale

And of course the watch’s limited edition number, reference number and model name, as well as the autograph of the company’s head, Italo Fontana.

As you can see, the crown of this watch is very special. After pulling the small trigger at 7 o’clock (or in the picture above, the little round bronze thing next to the lug), you pull the long (very long) crown. After that, it works just like any other regular winding and setting crown. The reason for having such a long crown is – in theory – an aspect of ease of use in all conditions, but we’re assuming U-Boat is targeting divers specifically with this gloved watch underwater. Other than that, it looks pretty cool.

Granted, we prefer the U-51 Chimera in bronze, but that’s just a matter of personal taste. Likewise, the finish and level of detail on U-42 B&B Ref 6947 is fantastic. The automatic movement is based on the ETA2824-2, which U-Boat refers to as the U-28. The movement has a power reserve of +40 hours and a beating rate of 28.800 BPH. Plenty of big brands are using solid no-nonsense movements.

zelin0802 / February 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces 8 New Royal Oak Luxury Watch Collections

Expanding the iconic Royal Oak collection, Audemars Piguet copy introduces a series of new style combinations.

As the Royal Oak embodies the characteristics of a true horological icon, Audemars Piguet continues that tradition with modern examples that have become some of the most desirable luxury watches in the industry. 2023 marks the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak, and Audemars Piguet is delighted to shock the watch world with eight new collections of the Royal Oak. The current collection features a variety of material and movement combinations that are sure to have collectors running to their authorized dealers for the chance to snag one.

Making up more than half of the new edition is a series of elegant Code 11.59 variants, showcasing skeletonized designs that accentuate the inner workings of AP’s legendary movement. All three new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 models use precious metals and complex tourbillons.

Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph White Gold Baguette Sapphire
The new 41mm Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph is crafted in 18-karat white gold and has a bezel paved with baguette-cut sapphires. The dial is decorated with Grande Tapisserie plaid, with blue accents and contrasting light blue counters.

Royal Oak Automatic Smoked Blue Dial
Audemars Piguet launched three Royal Oak special editions at the same time. Each version features the same smoky blue dial and “Grande Tapisserie” motif, housed in a 41mm white gold case, with a choice of movements: self-winding, self-winding chronograph and self-winding flying tourbillon .

Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph
Crafted in 18-carat white or rose gold and adorned with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and hour-markers, these new Royal Oak Automatic Chronographs combine sporty style with precious materials for a glamorous look.

Royal Oak Dark Blue Smoked Dial
Audemars Piguet presents three new Royal Oak timepieces in 18-carat white gold, all featuring Grande Tapisserie dials in a new shade of smoky blue. The offering includes two 34mm and 37mm Royal Oak Automatic watches and a 38mm Royal Oak Automatic Chronograph. The bezels of the three timepieces are set with baguette-cut diamonds, which adorn the faceted cases and bracelets of the Royal Oak collection.

Royal Oak “Jumbo” with blue grained dial
Audemars Piguet is pleased to present the new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin watch (Ref. 16202) with a new grained dial. This limited edition is powered by Caliber 7121, the latest ultra-thin movement launched in January 2022 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak. This 39mm watch has a white gold case.

Royal Oak Automatic Winding Yellow Gold With Natural Turquoise Dial
Audemars Piguet is pleased to present a new version of its 37mm Royal Oak Automatic, entirely crafted in 18-carat gold and sparkling with a natural turquoise dial. This original combination of precious materials endows timepieces with unprecedented brilliance. Used in jewelry for over 3,000 years, turquoise is a rare gemstone rich in positive attributes, and it deserves a natural place in the Royal Oak collection.

Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph 30th Anniversary
To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore, this new reference watch combines black ceramic with gold elements for a refined and powerful contrast. A Méga Tapisserie dial and interchangeable straps with a similar two-tone look complete the timepiece.

Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph
Audemars Piguet presents the new Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph 42mm, featuring a first-ever black ceramic case with a matching bracelet and black Petite Tapisserie dial for a modern monochromatic look.

zelin0802 / February 2, 2023

Omega Speedmaster Super Racer and Helix System

Learn about Omega’s latest innovation in precision – the Spirate System

A tiny device that can make a huge difference…that’s how fake Omega teases its latest technological development and the watch it’s powered by. The technological achievement in question has a name, and it’s the Spirate System. The watch has it too, it’s the Omega Speedmaster Super Racer. We introduced you to both in an article last week with lots of details. However, this new mechanism for making ultra-fine adjustments to the watch’s rate is not very well understood. The results and manner of using the Spirate System in real life are extremely effective for watchmakers. However, there is real watchmaking science behind it. In this regard, videos always provide a more accurate understanding of such technical topics than static images. So we decided to give you all the details about the Speedmaster Super Racing and Spirate System in the video at the top of this article, which you can watch here.

What is the Spirate system…? The development of this new technology allowed Omega to set new standards in movement adjustment. We’re talking about improved accuracy with a fine-tuning system that allows movement to be adjusted in increments of just 0.1 seconds per day. Overall, it’s accurate between 0 and +2 seconds per day. But the Spirate system alone is not enough. This is a new layer of quality and precision on top of all the innovations Omega has created before. best replica watch site

With its antimagnetic technology and ultra-demanding Master Chronometer standards, Omega has set a new benchmark for the industry. It is the result of many innovations involving multiple components of the watch. Co-axial escapement, silicon hairspring, 15,000 Gauss anti-magnetic movement. It’s all about precision. Until now, with the Master Chronometer, Omega’s watches have been adjusted between 0 and +5 seconds every day. It’s now between 0 and +2 seconds per day, which is quite possibly the strictest standard in the industry – at least for mainstream luxury watches produced on an industrial scale.

How does Omega do this? The Spirate system consists of a silicon balance spring with a new geometry, whose articulated structure allows the watchmaker to influence the stiffness of the balance spring’s connection point. This is done by means of an eccentric adjustment mechanism located on the balance bridge. It complements the adjusting screw on the variable inertia balance, allowing for ultra-precise and effortless rate adjustment. The result is a watch that is of course still highly resistant to magnetic properties, and a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, while also adopting the new “0 and +2 seconds per day” standard. It is important to know that Omega will gradually apply this technology to other movements in the future, as the module can be easily adapted to existing movements.

This video is also the perfect time to see the new watch Speedmaster Super Racing. The watch is based on the existing Speedmaster Racing concept, sharing many of the same features – case, proportions, base movement, display – and adding a layer of exclusivity with laser-etched sandwich dials and bold black and yellow accents. But you can learn all the details about the watch in our previous article and of course the video. The big deal here is the Spirate system, which may look simple, but is actually quite clever and technologically complex. A bit over-engineered. But that’s exactly what you’d expect from Omega… once again, the brand has set new standards for precision and industrialism.

zelin0802 / February 1, 2023


The Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283 is the latest collaboration between the two luxury houses. Ultra-modern, using cutting-edge materials and equipped with an impressive movement, the strategic alliance between the two companies has produced another fascinating timepiece.

Panerai and BRABUS announce partnership for 2021
In 2021, Panerai luxury announced an interesting partnership with BRABUS, a “high-end tech luxury brand” from Bottrop, Germany. BRABUS was founded in 1977 and started life-tuning standard Mercedes-Benz models. It didn’t take long, however, to apply its considerable flair to upgrading the engine, body, interior, and suspension. Today, the level of personalized service offered by the company is simply amazing, surpassing even the expectations of the most demanding clients.

The German brand has also applied its penchant for customization to private jets and, more recently, high-performance boats. The brand’s foray into the latter luxury segment explains why it has entered into a partnership with Panerai, the Italian-Swiss watch company synonymous with SeaWorld.

Panerai – a long tradition of diving watches
Founded in the beautiful city of Florence in 1860, Panerai has long provided the Italian Royal Navy with a wide range of professional equipment, including chronographs, depth gauges and mechanical calculators. Panerai produced the first military diving watch, the Panerai Radiomir, 47mm in diameter and equipped with a Rolex movement. Since then, many dive watches have been produced, often with improvements. When it comes to making diving watches, Panerai’s orthodoxy in this field is beyond doubt.

Today, more and more luxury brands are looking beyond traditional product portfolios and market segments to explore new territories. For example, some jewelry companies now offer handbags, fragrances, hotels and retail real estate. The prestige of the most prestigious brands can serve as a reliable sign of quality, speeding up the selection.

Through the marriage, Panerai and BRABUS have previously launched two joint products so far, namely the 2021 Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Black OPS Edition (PAM01240) and last year’s Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition ( PAM01241). Apparently, these models have proven popular with fans of both companies and have led to the release of the new Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283.

CARBOTECH ™️ case and bezel
Ultra-modern looking, the PAM01283 is housed in a cutting-edge Carbotech ™️ case with a matching unidirectional bezel. Judicious use of green hues infuses the PAM01283 with a considerable military-chic vibe, a look the brand recently adopted in the Panerai Submersible Forze Speciali Trial Edition (PAM01238).

Panerai PAM01283 Features
The Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition eschews traditional dials, offering views of multiple movement components as well as an interesting lattice grille. In addition to displaying hours, minutes and seconds, the PAM01283 also has a “polarized date” display, GMT, am/pm indicator, power reserve indicator on the rear of the cheap replica watches, seconds reset and the interesting function of calculating immersion time while diving.

P.4000 caliber
Personally, the engine in this fire-breathing BRABUS model in particular piqued my interest. The P.4000 movement is “the first automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor developed by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel”. Equipped with two barrels, the movement can run autonomously for 3 days. The movement’s skeletonised chassis is finished in a modern black hue, a refreshing contrast to the silver rhodium plating prevalent on most movements. Panerai also equipped the P.4000 movement with a free-sprung balance wheel, promising better performance than the usual raquette-based adjustments. top luxury copy watches

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE S BRABUS – Marriage as strong as ever
We have it, and in the tradition of both companies, the Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283 offers unique styling, dive watch legitimacy and impressive horological performance. It appears the marriage is as strong as ever.

technical specifications
Model: Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283
Case: Carbotech™️ case and graduated Carbotech™️ counterclockwise bezel, 47mm diameter, water resistant to 30ATM (300 meters), sapphire crystal, display case back.
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Polarized Date, GMT, AM/PM Indicator, Power Reserve Indicator on the Back, Seconds Reset, Dive Time Calculation
Movement: Caliber P.4001/S, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, 3-day power reserve, 341 components
Strap: c alf rubber bi-material black with green stitching, 26/22, BA, STD. DLC-coated trapezoidal titanium buckle

zelin0802 / December 23, 2022

Beast of the Deep, Titanium Rolex Deep Sea Challenge 126067

Once an experimental project, now part of a current series…you can actually take it to 11km!

A month ago, Rolex replica released a new model…not just a new variant of an existing watch, but simply their most advanced dive watch ever, the Deep Sea Challenge. What was once an experimental model dedicated to one man and his record for deepest dives on Earth (since beaten by another man and another brand) is now becoming a watch “available” to the general public. Honestly, the new Deepsea Challenge is better than the experimental watch. A lot has been said about this watch. Its resistance to incredible pressure was an outstanding technical achievement, it was the first Rolex made entirely of titanium, and it was an almost unwearable watch. But it’s not just numbers, so it’s time to dive into the (easy, I know…) meaning of this new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenger 126067.

The Current State of the Deep Dive Watch Industry
Behind this deep-sea challenge is actually nearly 70 years of research and development by Rolex and its partners – Comex, the military and explorers like Picard or James Cameron. Described by Rolex as their ultimate deep-sea watch, it is the direct successor to several experimental watches, starting with the original Deep-sea Special Edition from the late 1950s – a watch that dived all the way to the bottom of the Mariana Trench (10,916 meters or 35,814 feet) with the Piccard & Sons in 1960. If you’re interested, it’s on display with Trieste at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC. Fast-forward to 2012, and Rolex teamed up with film director James Cameron to break another record, delivering an experimental Deep Sea Challenge watch that accompanied him on his historic 10,908-meter (35,787-foot) descent. The latter is an important watch as it was actually the starting point for the development of this commercial Deepsea Challenge 126067.

Meanwhile, a man named Victor Vescovo achieved the culmination of his Five Deeps project, becoming the first person to dive into the deepest part of the world’s five oceans. During his descent down the Mariana Trench, Vescovo dived deeper than Cameron, reaching a depth of 10,928 meters – a record that seems unlikely to be broken. Attached to the exterior of his vessel are three Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Extra Deep Professional watches specially designed for this mission, officially tested to withstand pressures of 1,500 bar, or the equivalent of a depth of 15,000 meters.

This is for the experimental side of things. How about watches that you can buy from classic watch retailers? Well, even without an official definition, the concept of a deep dive watch (at least in my book) involves anything that can resist at least 100 bars, which means 1,000 meters or 3,300 feet or deeper depths. Honestly, these ratings have reached the point where they are unnecessary, as no one has ever dived – at least not in a pressurized vessel – below the 675m mark, which is the current record, set by French Comex diver Théo Mavrostomos in 1992 November 20, 2011, during an experimental dive (remember, this record required weeks of incredible compression and decompression procedures, and highly specific breathing mixtures).

Not many best quality watch replica are resistant to 100 bar and above. Some examples are Omega Ploprof (1,200m), Rolex Sea-Dweller (1,220m), Doxa SUB 1500T (1,500m), Sinn U2 EZM 5 (2,000m), Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller (3,900m) or Delma Blue Shark III (4,000 meters). Recently, Omega launched its seahorse series ocean universe ultra-deep commercial version. , with a water resistance of 6,000 meters (remember, Master Chronometer-certified watches are subject to 25% more pressure, which means up to 750 bar pressure, or about 7,500 meters). That’s not all. The Bell & Ross Hydromax is a quartz-powered watch with a silicon-filled case and very compact dimensions, launched in the early 2000s and rated to a depth of 11,100 metres. Finally, a German brand called H20 Watch advertises a watch called the Kalmar 2 Deep Diver, which was tested and officially certified by a German institute to withstand a pressure of over 2,500 bar, or about 25,000 meters.

Let me put it this way… Regardless of the record, any watch capable of exceeding 3 or 4km depth is impressive, and Rolex’s Deepsea Challenge with its 11,000m rating is simply exceptional. The forces and pressures experienced at such depths are enormous, especially when you consider that these apply to objects as small as 5 centimeters in diameter. Now let’s see how Rolex does it.

Rolex DEEPSEA CHALLENGE 126067, Facts
What is the new Deep Sea Challenge? Basically, this is Cameron’s watch open to the public. In fact, it doesn’t even stop there. This new model is actually better and more advanced in several ways. It has nearly the same level of resistance, but is smaller (or less massive), lighter and equipped with more advanced materials. The original 2012 Cameron Deep Sea Challenge reached the Mariana Trench, a stainless steel monster rated for a depth of 12,000m (that’s 13.6 tons of pressure…imagine a bus crushing your chest) with a diameter of 51.4 mm, the depth is 28.5 mm thick, the sapphire crystal is 14.3 mm thick, and the weight is approximately close to 400 grams.

The new Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067 has many design elements and overall concepts with Cameron’s watch, but it has actually been improved in several ways. Let’s start with materials. This watch is the first Rolex watch made entirely of titanium. Rolex has used titanium in the past for the caseback of the Deepsea Sea-Dweller, or in the Yacht-Master 42 prototype it made for Sir Ben Ainslie. The group’s only (commercially speaking) all-titanium watch is the Tudor Pelagos, but no Rolex watch has ever been made entirely of titanium. The alloy that Rolex is using here is called RLX Titanium, which is the internal designation for a grade 5 alloy. Titanium has several advantages and makes sense in the current context. It’s highly resistant to corrosion, it’s about 40% lighter than steel (not a small detail for such a beast) and it also has higher mechanical resistance, which is always useful against such stress.

Let’s talk size…I won’t hide the fact that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenger is a massive watch. period! Diameter: 50mm. Height: 23 mm. Lug to Lug: 61mm. Crystal thickness: 9.5mm. Weight: about 250 grams. However, look again at the specs of Cameron’s Deepsea Special. Everything shrinks, and not by a small amount. I’m not saying it makes the 126067 a compact watch, but it shows what Rolex has done between experimental models and commercial watches. Keep in mind that the whole watch would be thicker without the branded Ringlock system.

How do you make a watch that can withstand a pressure of about 1100 bars, or 13 tons? Well, it’s a combination of elements, starting with a firmly secured crown and a high strength gasket, in this case the triple interlocking crown. Then, mostly the Ringlock system does the job. Patented in 2007, the Ringlock consists of a compression ring that absorbs most of the stress caused by pressure and reduces stress on the case. This compression ring made of BioDur 108, an alloy used in orthopedic implants, can withstand three times the stress of Oyster steel (or 904L steel). It sits between the crystal and the titanium case back, transferring most of the pressure to its extremely solid structure. With it, the case can be made thinner, and the crystal can be made thinner (relatively speaking, of course).

As far as other diving credentials go, the Deepsea Challenge is basically a well-equipped but fairly classic dive watch. The case back is screwed on (of course), there is a helium escape valve on the left side of the case, and the crown is protected by a side guard. The chunky crystal is framed by a unidirectional bezel with a Cerachrom ceramic insert, a glossy black ceramic insert engraved with a fully graduated 60-minute scale and filled with platinum. Yes, the watch is officially rated at 11,000 meters or 36,090 feet, but keep in mind that cheap Rolex applied an extra 25 percent of the pressure during testing — or 13,750 meters — thanks to its longtime partner Comex specific device developed.

Regarding the design of the watch, it is certainly an unsurprising model. Conservative in most respects, it basically looks like an enhanced version of Deepsea Sea-Dweller 126660. At least from a distance. Still, there are multiple details that distinguish this deep-sea challenge. The case is mostly brushed, even on the sides (this is new), and has polished bevels on the lugs (this is old). Not sure why Rolex chose to bring those chamfers back – probably to visually reduce the size of the watch – but they look great, but might not quite fit in an instrument watch like this.

As for proportions and wearability, I’ll cut to the chase. I know what Rolex has done to make this Deepsea Challenge 126067 smaller, thinner and lighter than Cameron’s watch, but it’s still a huge, barely wearable watch. Of course, deep inside and out of the wetsuit, it looks purposeful. But in day-to-day, casual wear, it’s a gigantic watch. Just look at it next to the already large Deepsea Sea-Dweller (44mm x 18mm watch) and Sea-Dweller 4000 (40mm watch) and you’ll see what I mean.

And, at 61mm lug-to-lug (13mm more than the typical 41mm Submariner) and 23mm in height (yes, that’s about 4 Octo Finissimo Automatics stacked), the watch can’t hide its massive Size. That being said, the use of titanium makes the Deepsea Challenge a surprisingly light watch. It’s not light on its own, but somehow it plays with your brain as you think such a beast is much heavier. The problem is more with the size of the watch and not necessarily its weight.

Let’s move on to habillage, more specifically bracelets. No big surprises here either. The Deepsea Challenge is worn on a RLX titanium (grade 5) 3-link Oyster bracelet with safety folding Oyster clasp, Glidelock extension system and Fliplock extension chain. Very classic, still extremely well executed and well appointed. Besides the material, the main novelty is the finish, as most parts of the bracelet are brushed, including the sides of the links (which are often polished).

The dial of this Rolex 126067 plays security again. However, contrary to many of Crown’s modern watches, the dial is matte black and lacks a date window – which is found on regular Deepsea and Cameron watches. The rest are classic Submariner/Sea-Dweller with white gold markers and hands filled with blue luminous Chromalight. Now, if most modern Rolex watches are already pretty chatty when it comes to dial literature, this Deep Sea Challenge really has a lot going for it. There are 3 lines of text and a crown logo at 12 o’clock, 4 lines of text at 6 o’clock, and a fairly obvious reference to the Ringlock system below the crystal. A bit much, don’t you think Rolex?

Beneath the caseback, engraved with a specific engraving relating to the record, is Rolex’s classic movement, the chronograph-only self-winding Caliber 3230. Part of the latest generation movement, it is certified Superlative Chronometer (-2/+2 seconds per day, controlled in case), is equipped with a Chronergy escapement, blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, and has a power reserve of 70 hours . A very capable and precise engine.

How do you view the deep sea challenge?
Like many deep-sea diving watches, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenge is a rather useless thing. Hear me out. No one dives to such depths, at least not without getting into a submarine or bathyscaphe. And in this case, that means a pressurized environment…even your most delicate ultra-thin gold watch will feel at ease there. As an object for diving, a tool with a mission, the 126067 is simply over-engineered. The Sea-Dweller is more than adequate for even the deepest diving sessions. So what is the Deep Sea Challenge? It is a display of virtuosity, the real-world application of decades of experimentation, research and development. It is the greatest capability of science and engineering. It is the ultimate Rolex diving watch, condensing all the technologies, patents and ideas created by the brand over the years. In that respect, it’s a masterpiece. In practice, known through professional use of the watch, it brings an incredible (maybe even top notch) level of security. But it’s certainly not essential.

In daily use, wearing this watch has no objective meaning. It’s so big that it’s nearly impossible to wear, and it doesn’t satisfy any rational need. But we humans and watch collectors are not driven by rational needs. Especially when it comes to mechanical watches. Like a 1,500bhp Bugatti Veyron or a 1,000bhp Tesla, this Rolex pushes the boundaries of the possible, beyond the necessary, to meet the extraordinary, in varying degrees. It’s a talking piece, an engineer’s dream, a watch that elicits emotion and conversation, not because it’s elegant or refined, but because it’s a watch strong enough to reach the deepest part of the earth watch. This is, in all its subjectivity and bias, pretty crazy. Nobody is going to use it for what it’s supposed to do, but just know it does,

Technical Specifications – Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenge RLX Titanium
Case: 50mm diameter x 23mm height – 61mm lug to lug – RLX titanium (grade 5 titanium) with polished accents – one piece construction – screw down crown and case back – Rolex Ringlock system case construction, Nitrogen alloy steel ring and helium escape valve – Unidirectional bezel with 60-minute scale on black Cerachrom insert, platinum insert – 9.5 mm domed scratch-resistant sapphire – Water resistant to 11,000 meters/36,090 feet
Dial: Black matte dial – Platinum hour-markers and hands – all elements filled with Chromalight
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3230 – Manufacture – Top Chronometer certified – Automatic – 28.5 mm – 31 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – Chronergy escapement – 70 hours power reserve – Hours, minutes, seconds
Bracelet: 3-link RLX titanium Oyster with brushed folding Oyster safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system and Fliplock extension
Reference: M126067-0001

zelin0802 / December 21, 2022

Jacobs & Co. Astronomia

Jacob Arabo won with his original design of the Astronomia watch. The Astronomia Tourbillon is a watch to wear with pride, a watch that stands out on the wrist, and a watch that needs – how shall I put it – a certain personality.

There are so many things that set Jacob & Co. Astronomia watches apart from others. First up is the case, which isn’t much of a case by the standards of other watches, at least not in terms of its precious metal content. Because the Astronomia is all about transparency and fully revealing the inner workings of the Tri-Axis Tourbillon. Precious metal therefore plays a greater structural role, as the lugs, caseback and slender bezel act as the frame for the massive domed sapphire crystal. The Jacob & Co. Astronomia does not have a dial in the traditional sense. The caseback, on the other side, features a variety of finishes from mirror polished to starry sky. You also won’t find the crown on the side of the Astronomia case. The watch is wound and set using the two bows on the back.

The key to the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon‘s appeal is the hand-wound movement beating beneath the sapphire crystal. It is a three-axis gravity tourbillon consisting of four independent arms that rotate around a central axis. In the countless watches in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia collection, each of these four arms has two constants: the three-axis tourbillon movement itself and the hour and minute subdials. Other arms may hold miniature models of Earth, gemstones representing the sun, moon or many other planets, or even astronauts.

The tourbillon itself is worth a close inspection, as there are very few other triple-axis tourbillon watches of this type on the market. The tourbillon has three axes of rotation (hence the name triaxial): the first is usually 60 seconds around its own central axis, which controls the minutes, and the second is the axis of its arm, which revolves around it every two revolutions Rotate once for half a minute, and the third is the central axis, which rotates around the central axis every 10 minutes.

The name Jacob & Co. Astronomia is of course a celestial reference, and the four arms and different axes of rotation allow for different interpretations of our universe, where the time display itself plays almost a secondary role. In its simplest expression, the two arms hold a magnesium sphere at one end and a special Jacob-cut diamond at the other, representing the sun. In the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Watch, others use diamonds and other gemstones to depict other planets in the solar system.

However, these highly complicated mechanical watches wouldn’t be real Jacob & Co. watches if it weren’t for the magical touch of renowned jeweler Jacob & Co. All the different Astronomia Tourbillon models are available in dazzling gem-set versions in which baguette diamonds play a starring role alongside the famous Jacob-cut diamonds. Baguette diamonds may be set on the lugs, across the case and throughout the watch background.

But beyond gold and diamonds, Astronomia has another quintessentially Jacob aspect, in the form of playful models inspired by gambling and the animal world. We see Jacob & Co. Astronomia tourbillons called “Gambler” and “Casino,” both of which are based on a wheel (for the latter watch, it even works), as well as “Dragon,” the “Octopus” and “Spider”.