zelin0802 / February 2, 2023

Omega Speedmaster Super Racer and Helix System

Learn about Omega’s latest innovation in precision – the Spirate System

A tiny device that can make a huge difference…that’s how fake Omega teases its latest technological development and the watch it’s powered by. The technological achievement in question has a name, and it’s the Spirate System. The watch has it too, it’s the Omega Speedmaster Super Racer. We introduced you to both in an article last week with lots of details. However, this new mechanism for making ultra-fine adjustments to the watch’s rate is not very well understood. The results and manner of using the Spirate System in real life are extremely effective for watchmakers. However, there is real watchmaking science behind it. In this regard, videos always provide a more accurate understanding of such technical topics than static images. So we decided to give you all the details about the Speedmaster Super Racing and Spirate System in the video at the top of this article, which you can watch here.

What is the Spirate system…? The development of this new technology allowed Omega to set new standards in movement adjustment. We’re talking about improved accuracy with a fine-tuning system that allows movement to be adjusted in increments of just 0.1 seconds per day. Overall, it’s accurate between 0 and +2 seconds per day. But the Spirate system alone is not enough. This is a new layer of quality and precision on top of all the innovations Omega has created before. best replica watch site

With its antimagnetic technology and ultra-demanding Master Chronometer standards, Omega has set a new benchmark for the industry. It is the result of many innovations involving multiple components of the watch. Co-axial escapement, silicon hairspring, 15,000 Gauss anti-magnetic movement. It’s all about precision. Until now, with the Master Chronometer, Omega’s watches have been adjusted between 0 and +5 seconds every day. It’s now between 0 and +2 seconds per day, which is quite possibly the strictest standard in the industry – at least for mainstream luxury watches produced on an industrial scale.

How does Omega do this? The Spirate system consists of a silicon balance spring with a new geometry, whose articulated structure allows the watchmaker to influence the stiffness of the balance spring’s connection point. This is done by means of an eccentric adjustment mechanism located on the balance bridge. It complements the adjusting screw on the variable inertia balance, allowing for ultra-precise and effortless rate adjustment. The result is a watch that is of course still highly resistant to magnetic properties, and a METAS-certified Master Chronometer, while also adopting the new “0 and +2 seconds per day” standard. It is important to know that Omega will gradually apply this technology to other movements in the future, as the module can be easily adapted to existing movements.

This video is also the perfect time to see the new watch Speedmaster Super Racing. The watch is based on the existing Speedmaster Racing concept, sharing many of the same features – case, proportions, base movement, display – and adding a layer of exclusivity with laser-etched sandwich dials and bold black and yellow accents. But you can learn all the details about the watch in our previous article and of course the video. The big deal here is the Spirate system, which may look simple, but is actually quite clever and technologically complex. A bit over-engineered. But that’s exactly what you’d expect from Omega… once again, the brand has set new standards for precision and industrialism.

zelin0802 / February 1, 2023


The Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283 is the latest collaboration between the two luxury houses. Ultra-modern, using cutting-edge materials and equipped with an impressive movement, the strategic alliance between the two companies has produced another fascinating timepiece.

Panerai and BRABUS announce partnership for 2021
In 2021, Panerai luxury announced an interesting partnership with BRABUS, a “high-end tech luxury brand” from Bottrop, Germany. BRABUS was founded in 1977 and started life-tuning standard Mercedes-Benz models. It didn’t take long, however, to apply its considerable flair to upgrading the engine, body, interior, and suspension. Today, the level of personalized service offered by the company is simply amazing, surpassing even the expectations of the most demanding clients.

The German brand has also applied its penchant for customization to private jets and, more recently, high-performance boats. The brand’s foray into the latter luxury segment explains why it has entered into a partnership with Panerai, the Italian-Swiss watch company synonymous with SeaWorld.

Panerai – a long tradition of diving watches
Founded in the beautiful city of Florence in 1860, Panerai has long provided the Italian Royal Navy with a wide range of professional equipment, including chronographs, depth gauges and mechanical calculators. Panerai produced the first military diving watch, the Panerai Radiomir, 47mm in diameter and equipped with a Rolex movement. Since then, many dive watches have been produced, often with improvements. When it comes to making diving watches, Panerai’s orthodoxy in this field is beyond doubt.

Today, more and more luxury brands are looking beyond traditional product portfolios and market segments to explore new territories. For example, some jewelry companies now offer handbags, fragrances, hotels and retail real estate. The prestige of the most prestigious brands can serve as a reliable sign of quality, speeding up the selection.

Through the marriage, Panerai and BRABUS have previously launched two joint products so far, namely the 2021 Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Black OPS Edition (PAM01240) and last year’s Panerai Submersible S BRABUS Blue Shadow Edition ( PAM01241). Apparently, these models have proven popular with fans of both companies and have led to the release of the new Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283.

CARBOTECH ™️ case and bezel
Ultra-modern looking, the PAM01283 is housed in a cutting-edge Carbotech ™️ case with a matching unidirectional bezel. Judicious use of green hues infuses the PAM01283 with a considerable military-chic vibe, a look the brand recently adopted in the Panerai Submersible Forze Speciali Trial Edition (PAM01238).

Panerai PAM01283 Features
The Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition eschews traditional dials, offering views of multiple movement components as well as an interesting lattice grille. In addition to displaying hours, minutes and seconds, the PAM01283 also has a “polarized date” display, GMT, am/pm indicator, power reserve indicator on the rear of the cheap replica watches, seconds reset and the interesting function of calculating immersion time while diving.

P.4000 caliber
Personally, the engine in this fire-breathing BRABUS model in particular piqued my interest. The P.4000 movement is “the first automatic movement with an off-centre micro-rotor developed by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel”. Equipped with two barrels, the movement can run autonomously for 3 days. The movement’s skeletonised chassis is finished in a modern black hue, a refreshing contrast to the silver rhodium plating prevalent on most movements. Panerai also equipped the P.4000 movement with a free-sprung balance wheel, promising better performance than the usual raquette-based adjustments. top luxury copy watches

PANERAI SUBMERSIBLE S BRABUS – Marriage as strong as ever
We have it, and in the tradition of both companies, the Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283 offers unique styling, dive watch legitimacy and impressive horological performance. It appears the marriage is as strong as ever.

technical specifications
Model: Panerai Submersible S Brabus Verde Militare Edition PAM01283
Case: Carbotech™️ case and graduated Carbotech™️ counterclockwise bezel, 47mm diameter, water resistant to 30ATM (300 meters), sapphire crystal, display case back.
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Polarized Date, GMT, AM/PM Indicator, Power Reserve Indicator on the Back, Seconds Reset, Dive Time Calculation
Movement: Caliber P.4001/S, automatic, 28,800 vph (4Hz), 31 jewels, 3-day power reserve, 341 components
Strap: c alf rubber bi-material black with green stitching, 26/22, BA, STD. DLC-coated trapezoidal titanium buckle

zelin0802 / December 23, 2022

Beast of the Deep, Titanium Rolex Deep Sea Challenge 126067

Once an experimental project, now part of a current series…you can actually take it to 11km!

A month ago, Rolex replica released a new model…not just a new variant of an existing watch, but simply their most advanced dive watch ever, the Deep Sea Challenge. What was once an experimental model dedicated to one man and his record for deepest dives on Earth (since beaten by another man and another brand) is now becoming a watch “available” to the general public. Honestly, the new Deepsea Challenge is better than the experimental watch. A lot has been said about this watch. Its resistance to incredible pressure was an outstanding technical achievement, it was the first Rolex made entirely of titanium, and it was an almost unwearable watch. But it’s not just numbers, so it’s time to dive into the (easy, I know…) meaning of this new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenger 126067.

The Current State of the Deep Dive Watch Industry
Behind this deep-sea challenge is actually nearly 70 years of research and development by Rolex and its partners – Comex, the military and explorers like Picard or James Cameron. Described by Rolex as their ultimate deep-sea watch, it is the direct successor to several experimental watches, starting with the original Deep-sea Special Edition from the late 1950s – a watch that dived all the way to the bottom of the Mariana Trench (10,916 meters or 35,814 feet) with the Piccard & Sons in 1960. If you’re interested, it’s on display with Trieste at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC. Fast-forward to 2012, and Rolex teamed up with film director James Cameron to break another record, delivering an experimental Deep Sea Challenge watch that accompanied him on his historic 10,908-meter (35,787-foot) descent. The latter is an important watch as it was actually the starting point for the development of this commercial Deepsea Challenge 126067.

Meanwhile, a man named Victor Vescovo achieved the culmination of his Five Deeps project, becoming the first person to dive into the deepest part of the world’s five oceans. During his descent down the Mariana Trench, Vescovo dived deeper than Cameron, reaching a depth of 10,928 meters – a record that seems unlikely to be broken. Attached to the exterior of his vessel are three Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Extra Deep Professional watches specially designed for this mission, officially tested to withstand pressures of 1,500 bar, or the equivalent of a depth of 15,000 meters.

This is for the experimental side of things. How about watches that you can buy from classic watch retailers? Well, even without an official definition, the concept of a deep dive watch (at least in my book) involves anything that can resist at least 100 bars, which means 1,000 meters or 3,300 feet or deeper depths. Honestly, these ratings have reached the point where they are unnecessary, as no one has ever dived – at least not in a pressurized vessel – below the 675m mark, which is the current record, set by French Comex diver Théo Mavrostomos in 1992 November 20, 2011, during an experimental dive (remember, this record required weeks of incredible compression and decompression procedures, and highly specific breathing mixtures).

Not many best quality watch replica are resistant to 100 bar and above. Some examples are Omega Ploprof (1,200m), Rolex Sea-Dweller (1,220m), Doxa SUB 1500T (1,500m), Sinn U2 EZM 5 (2,000m), Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller (3,900m) or Delma Blue Shark III (4,000 meters). Recently, Omega launched its seahorse series ocean universe ultra-deep commercial version. , with a water resistance of 6,000 meters (remember, Master Chronometer-certified watches are subject to 25% more pressure, which means up to 750 bar pressure, or about 7,500 meters). That’s not all. The Bell & Ross Hydromax is a quartz-powered watch with a silicon-filled case and very compact dimensions, launched in the early 2000s and rated to a depth of 11,100 metres. Finally, a German brand called H20 Watch advertises a watch called the Kalmar 2 Deep Diver, which was tested and officially certified by a German institute to withstand a pressure of over 2,500 bar, or about 25,000 meters.

Let me put it this way… Regardless of the record, any watch capable of exceeding 3 or 4km depth is impressive, and Rolex’s Deepsea Challenge with its 11,000m rating is simply exceptional. The forces and pressures experienced at such depths are enormous, especially when you consider that these apply to objects as small as 5 centimeters in diameter. Now let’s see how Rolex does it.

Rolex DEEPSEA CHALLENGE 126067, Facts
What is the new Deep Sea Challenge? Basically, this is Cameron’s watch open to the public. In fact, it doesn’t even stop there. This new model is actually better and more advanced in several ways. It has nearly the same level of resistance, but is smaller (or less massive), lighter and equipped with more advanced materials. The original 2012 Cameron Deep Sea Challenge reached the Mariana Trench, a stainless steel monster rated for a depth of 12,000m (that’s 13.6 tons of pressure…imagine a bus crushing your chest) with a diameter of 51.4 mm, the depth is 28.5 mm thick, the sapphire crystal is 14.3 mm thick, and the weight is approximately close to 400 grams.

The new Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067 has many design elements and overall concepts with Cameron’s watch, but it has actually been improved in several ways. Let’s start with materials. This watch is the first Rolex watch made entirely of titanium. Rolex has used titanium in the past for the caseback of the Deepsea Sea-Dweller, or in the Yacht-Master 42 prototype it made for Sir Ben Ainslie. The group’s only (commercially speaking) all-titanium watch is the Tudor Pelagos, but no Rolex watch has ever been made entirely of titanium. The alloy that Rolex is using here is called RLX Titanium, which is the internal designation for a grade 5 alloy. Titanium has several advantages and makes sense in the current context. It’s highly resistant to corrosion, it’s about 40% lighter than steel (not a small detail for such a beast) and it also has higher mechanical resistance, which is always useful against such stress.

Let’s talk size…I won’t hide the fact that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenger is a massive watch. period! Diameter: 50mm. Height: 23 mm. Lug to Lug: 61mm. Crystal thickness: 9.5mm. Weight: about 250 grams. However, look again at the specs of Cameron’s Deepsea Special. Everything shrinks, and not by a small amount. I’m not saying it makes the 126067 a compact watch, but it shows what Rolex has done between experimental models and commercial watches. Keep in mind that the whole watch would be thicker without the branded Ringlock system.

How do you make a watch that can withstand a pressure of about 1100 bars, or 13 tons? Well, it’s a combination of elements, starting with a firmly secured crown and a high strength gasket, in this case the triple interlocking crown. Then, mostly the Ringlock system does the job. Patented in 2007, the Ringlock consists of a compression ring that absorbs most of the stress caused by pressure and reduces stress on the case. This compression ring made of BioDur 108, an alloy used in orthopedic implants, can withstand three times the stress of Oyster steel (or 904L steel). It sits between the crystal and the titanium case back, transferring most of the pressure to its extremely solid structure. With it, the case can be made thinner, and the crystal can be made thinner (relatively speaking, of course).

As far as other diving credentials go, the Deepsea Challenge is basically a well-equipped but fairly classic dive watch. The case back is screwed on (of course), there is a helium escape valve on the left side of the case, and the crown is protected by a side guard. The chunky crystal is framed by a unidirectional bezel with a Cerachrom ceramic insert, a glossy black ceramic insert engraved with a fully graduated 60-minute scale and filled with platinum. Yes, the watch is officially rated at 11,000 meters or 36,090 feet, but keep in mind that cheap Rolex applied an extra 25 percent of the pressure during testing — or 13,750 meters — thanks to its longtime partner Comex specific device developed.

Regarding the design of the watch, it is certainly an unsurprising model. Conservative in most respects, it basically looks like an enhanced version of Deepsea Sea-Dweller 126660. At least from a distance. Still, there are multiple details that distinguish this deep-sea challenge. The case is mostly brushed, even on the sides (this is new), and has polished bevels on the lugs (this is old). Not sure why Rolex chose to bring those chamfers back – probably to visually reduce the size of the watch – but they look great, but might not quite fit in an instrument watch like this.

As for proportions and wearability, I’ll cut to the chase. I know what Rolex has done to make this Deepsea Challenge 126067 smaller, thinner and lighter than Cameron’s watch, but it’s still a huge, barely wearable watch. Of course, deep inside and out of the wetsuit, it looks purposeful. But in day-to-day, casual wear, it’s a gigantic watch. Just look at it next to the already large Deepsea Sea-Dweller (44mm x 18mm watch) and Sea-Dweller 4000 (40mm watch) and you’ll see what I mean.

And, at 61mm lug-to-lug (13mm more than the typical 41mm Submariner) and 23mm in height (yes, that’s about 4 Octo Finissimo Automatics stacked), the watch can’t hide its massive Size. That being said, the use of titanium makes the Deepsea Challenge a surprisingly light watch. It’s not light on its own, but somehow it plays with your brain as you think such a beast is much heavier. The problem is more with the size of the watch and not necessarily its weight.

Let’s move on to habillage, more specifically bracelets. No big surprises here either. The Deepsea Challenge is worn on a RLX titanium (grade 5) 3-link Oyster bracelet with safety folding Oyster clasp, Glidelock extension system and Fliplock extension chain. Very classic, still extremely well executed and well appointed. Besides the material, the main novelty is the finish, as most parts of the bracelet are brushed, including the sides of the links (which are often polished).

The dial of this Rolex 126067 plays security again. However, contrary to many of Crown’s modern watches, the dial is matte black and lacks a date window – which is found on regular Deepsea and Cameron watches. The rest are classic Submariner/Sea-Dweller with white gold markers and hands filled with blue luminous Chromalight. Now, if most modern Rolex watches are already pretty chatty when it comes to dial literature, this Deep Sea Challenge really has a lot going for it. There are 3 lines of text and a crown logo at 12 o’clock, 4 lines of text at 6 o’clock, and a fairly obvious reference to the Ringlock system below the crystal. A bit much, don’t you think Rolex?

Beneath the caseback, engraved with a specific engraving relating to the record, is Rolex’s classic movement, the chronograph-only self-winding Caliber 3230. Part of the latest generation movement, it is certified Superlative Chronometer (-2/+2 seconds per day, controlled in case), is equipped with a Chronergy escapement, blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, and has a power reserve of 70 hours . A very capable and precise engine.

How do you view the deep sea challenge?
Like many deep-sea diving watches, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenge is a rather useless thing. Hear me out. No one dives to such depths, at least not without getting into a submarine or bathyscaphe. And in this case, that means a pressurized environment…even your most delicate ultra-thin gold watch will feel at ease there. As an object for diving, a tool with a mission, the 126067 is simply over-engineered. The Sea-Dweller is more than adequate for even the deepest diving sessions. So what is the Deep Sea Challenge? It is a display of virtuosity, the real-world application of decades of experimentation, research and development. It is the greatest capability of science and engineering. It is the ultimate Rolex diving watch, condensing all the technologies, patents and ideas created by the brand over the years. In that respect, it’s a masterpiece. In practice, known through professional use of the watch, it brings an incredible (maybe even top notch) level of security. But it’s certainly not essential.

In daily use, wearing this watch has no objective meaning. It’s so big that it’s nearly impossible to wear, and it doesn’t satisfy any rational need. But we humans and watch collectors are not driven by rational needs. Especially when it comes to mechanical watches. Like a 1,500bhp Bugatti Veyron or a 1,000bhp Tesla, this Rolex pushes the boundaries of the possible, beyond the necessary, to meet the extraordinary, in varying degrees. It’s a talking piece, an engineer’s dream, a watch that elicits emotion and conversation, not because it’s elegant or refined, but because it’s a watch strong enough to reach the deepest part of the earth watch. This is, in all its subjectivity and bias, pretty crazy. Nobody is going to use it for what it’s supposed to do, but just know it does,

Technical Specifications – Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deep Sea Challenge RLX Titanium
Case: 50mm diameter x 23mm height – 61mm lug to lug – RLX titanium (grade 5 titanium) with polished accents – one piece construction – screw down crown and case back – Rolex Ringlock system case construction, Nitrogen alloy steel ring and helium escape valve – Unidirectional bezel with 60-minute scale on black Cerachrom insert, platinum insert – 9.5 mm domed scratch-resistant sapphire – Water resistant to 11,000 meters/36,090 feet
Dial: Black matte dial – Platinum hour-markers and hands – all elements filled with Chromalight
Movement: Rolex Caliber 3230 – Manufacture – Top Chronometer certified – Automatic – 28.5 mm – 31 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – Chronergy escapement – 70 hours power reserve – Hours, minutes, seconds
Bracelet: 3-link RLX titanium Oyster with brushed folding Oyster safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system and Fliplock extension
Reference: M126067-0001

zelin0802 / December 21, 2022

Jacobs & Co. Astronomia

Jacob Arabo won with his original design of the Astronomia watch. The Astronomia Tourbillon is a watch to wear with pride, a watch that stands out on the wrist, and a watch that needs – how shall I put it – a certain personality.

There are so many things that set Jacob & Co. Astronomia watches apart from others. First up is the case, which isn’t much of a case by the standards of other watches, at least not in terms of its precious metal content. Because the Astronomia is all about transparency and fully revealing the inner workings of the Tri-Axis Tourbillon. Precious metal therefore plays a greater structural role, as the lugs, caseback and slender bezel act as the frame for the massive domed sapphire crystal. The Jacob & Co. Astronomia does not have a dial in the traditional sense. The caseback, on the other side, features a variety of finishes from mirror polished to starry sky. You also won’t find the crown on the side of the Astronomia case. The watch is wound and set using the two bows on the back.

The key to the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon‘s appeal is the hand-wound movement beating beneath the sapphire crystal. It is a three-axis gravity tourbillon consisting of four independent arms that rotate around a central axis. In the countless watches in the Jacob & Co. Astronomia collection, each of these four arms has two constants: the three-axis tourbillon movement itself and the hour and minute subdials. Other arms may hold miniature models of Earth, gemstones representing the sun, moon or many other planets, or even astronauts.

The tourbillon itself is worth a close inspection, as there are very few other triple-axis tourbillon watches of this type on the market. The tourbillon has three axes of rotation (hence the name triaxial): the first is usually 60 seconds around its own central axis, which controls the minutes, and the second is the axis of its arm, which revolves around it every two revolutions Rotate once for half a minute, and the third is the central axis, which rotates around the central axis every 10 minutes.

The name Jacob & Co. Astronomia is of course a celestial reference, and the four arms and different axes of rotation allow for different interpretations of our universe, where the time display itself plays almost a secondary role. In its simplest expression, the two arms hold a magnesium sphere at one end and a special Jacob-cut diamond at the other, representing the sun. In the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Solar Watch, others use diamonds and other gemstones to depict other planets in the solar system.

However, these highly complicated mechanical watches wouldn’t be real Jacob & Co. watches if it weren’t for the magical touch of renowned jeweler Jacob & Co. All the different Astronomia Tourbillon models are available in dazzling gem-set versions in which baguette diamonds play a starring role alongside the famous Jacob-cut diamonds. Baguette diamonds may be set on the lugs, across the case and throughout the watch background.

But beyond gold and diamonds, Astronomia has another quintessentially Jacob aspect, in the form of playful models inspired by gambling and the animal world. We see Jacob & Co. Astronomia tourbillons called “Gambler” and “Casino,” both of which are based on a wheel (for the latter watch, it even works), as well as “Dragon,” the “Octopus” and “Spider”.

zelin0802 / December 19, 2022

The Quartet of Patek Philippe Watches We Haven’t Shown You Yet

A pair of Nautilus cheap watches, a gem-set Aquanaut and a stunning split-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar.

Earlier this week, rumors surfaced that Patek Philippe was about to launch a long-awaited successor to the iconic Nautilus 5711. Sure enough, the Platinum Nautilus 5811G was launched last Tuesday. Slightly larger in size with smaller aesthetic updates that continue the Nautilus tradition. But that’s far from it, with the brand launching not one but eight new timepieces, including the luxurious Nautilus 5792 with power reserve, moon phase and date, the irresistible stainless steel and salmon-coloured World Time Flyback Chronograph 5935A, and the amazing 5373P Split-second single pusher chronograph perpetual calendar “Destro”. Half of the new products have been released, and there are four more models to share with you. We will take you through them one by one. Starting with the 5402G Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, followed by the Nautilus 5990 Flyback Chronograph Travel Time, then the Nautilus Joallerie 7118 Ladies Automatic and finally the Aquanaut 7968 Luce Rainbow Chronograph.

Patek Philippe 5402G-001 Split Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
We kick off with the stunning Patek Philippe 5402G-001, another complex split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. 5402 is considered one of the brand’s classics, having previously been available in rose gold with a chocolate brown dial, a smooth white dial or a slate gray dial. This time, it’s in white gold with a gorgeous olive green sunburst dial with a subtle gradient to black on the outer edge. The hand-wound CHR 29-535 PS Q has traditional architecture and is capable of tracking normal time, elapsed time with split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar indication with date, day of the week, month, moon phase, day/night and leap year display. Comes with an olive green leather strap.

40mm x 14.3mm – polished white gold case – crown with integrated rattrapante pusher – start/stop and reset pushers – double-sided sapphire crystal – olive green gradient sunburst dial – appliqued hour markers – white gold dauphine hands with luminescent coating Tier – Caliber CHF 29-535 PS Q, Manual Winding – Split Seconds Chronograph and Perpetual Calendar – 496 Components – 28,800vph – Minutes. 55 hours to a maximum of 65 hours power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds split-seconds chronograph, day, date, month, moon phase, day/night, leap year – olive green leather strap with folding clasp.

Patek Philippe NAUTILUS 5990/1A-001 Flyback Chronograph Travel Time Watch
The third Nautilus of Patek Philippe’s eight timepiece releases this week is the new 5990/10-001 Flyback Chronograph Travel Time. This complication was presented in rose gold last year, but the heritage of the 5990 started with a stainless steel model in 2014 to replace the 5980/1A. The stainless steel version 5990 has been updated with a new blue dial with a sunburst finish and a subtle black gradient around the perimeter. With the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, it combines three practical meanings into one; flyback chronograph, dual time zone and date indication relative to local time. Wear the familiar one-piece stainless steel bracelet, now with a comfort clasp.

40.5mm x 12.53mm – stainless steel case, brushed and polished – screw-down crown with extended chronograph pushers – front and rear sapphire crystal – 120m water resistance – sunburst black gradient effect – white gold hands with luminescent coating – applied indices – Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS, automatic – Flyback chronograph with dual time zone indication – 370 components – 28,800vph – minutes. 45 hours to a maximum of 55 hours power reserve – hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph, date, local time day/night, home time day/night – integrated stainless steel bracelet with comfort adjustment.

Patek Philippe NAUTILUS JOALLERIE 7118-1300R Ladies Automatic Winding
Half of Patek Philippe’s novelties come from the Nautilus collection, the last of which is dedicated to women. The new Patek Philippe Nautilus Joallerie 7118-1300R Ladies Automatic in an all rose gold case measures 35.2mm in diameter and tops with a gradient-set brown copper spessartine bezel (darker and lighter at 12 and 6 o’clock) at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock). This gemstone is also used for the hour markers, and the hands are displayed in the varnished center in the same hue. The automatic movement Caliber 324 SC is visible through the case back and features a 21k gold central rotor. It bears the Patek Philippe seal of quality, as all watches do, and is, of course, finished to the highest standards.

Profile – 35.2mm x 8.62mm – Rose gold case, polished – Gradient spessartite set bezel – Sapphire crystal front and back – 60m water resistance – Rose gold plated dial with wave pattern – When spessartite is applied Standards – Rose Gold Hands Brown Varnish Center – Caliber 324 SC, Automatic Winding – 217 Components – 28,800vph – 21k Gold Rotor – Min. 35 to max. 45-hour power reserve – central hours, minutes, seconds and date – integrated rose gold bracelet, brushed and polished.

Patek Philippe AQUANAUT 7968-300R LUCE RAINBOW Chronograph
The last of four new Patek Philippe watches is the Aquanaut 7968-300R Luce Rainbow Chronograph. This 39.9mm wide rose gold Aquanaut based on the 5968A concept features a gem-set bezel featuring a row of clear diamonds and a row of iridescent sapphires. The white mother-of-pearl dial is engraved with the Aquanaut motif, the hours are set with iridescent sapphires, and gold applied numerals. Rose gold hour and minute hands are infused with luminous material. Inside, we find the self-winding caliber CH 28-520, which indicates central hours and minutes, chronograph seconds and chronograph 60 minutes in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock. These colorful models are paired with red, white or beige composite straps and feature a diamond-set folding clasp.

39.9mm x 10.37mm – Polished rose gold case – Rose gold chronograph pushers – Bezel set with two rows of clear diamonds and iridescent sapphires – Double-sided sapphire crystal – 30m water resistance – White mother-of-pearl dial with Aquanaut pattern – Baguette cut Multicoloured sapphire hour markers – Applied gold numerals – Rose gold hands with luminescent material – Caliber CH 28-520 – Automatic flyback chronograph – 259 components – 28,800vph – Minutes. 45 hours to maximum 55 hours power reserve – 21k gold rotor – Central hours, minutes, chronograph with central seconds and 60-minute counter – Red, white or beige composite bracelet with diamond-set deployant buckle. replica men watches

zelin0802 / December 16, 2022

The best watches worn by the top players at the 2022 World Cup

The 2022 FIFA World Cup is in full swing, full of surprises, drama and surprises. It all kicked off with Saudi Arabia’s surprise win over one of the favorites, and Argentina and Japan over Germany. Amidst it all, veritable giants of the game, star players unite fans and work wonders. However, we are a watch magazine so we would be remiss not to ask the question, which World Cup star player has the best replica Watches uk?

Let’s take a look at eight legendary players and find out, starting with the number eight’s watch.

  1. Kylian Mbappé——Hublot Big Bang Spirit King Gold
    I don’t want to fall into a stereotype, but honestly, it wouldn’t be a footballer’s watch list without at least one Hublot watch. Kylian Mbappé recreates the Big Bang King Gold spirit after his game against Australia. Hublot is known for its large-scale sports designs and urban aesthetics, as well as its huge brand recognition, making it a popular choice for athletes.

The spirit of the Big Bang in particular has gained a lot of attention due to its similarity to other iconic watches such as Richard Mille. Mbappe’s version comes in a 42mm case in Hublot King Gold, which shines on the wrist like the World Cup trophy itself. It is powered by Caliber HUB4700.

  1. Gareth Bale——Hublot Big Bang Spirit Meca-10 King Gold
    Right off the bat we have another Hublot, and it’s another Big Bang spirit, although this time it’s the Meca-10 King Gold Edition. It is distinguished from a chronograph by its black skeletonized dial and absence of pushers. Additionally, the Meca-10 celebrates its 10-day power reserve with a unique power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. However, the broad design of the tonneau-shaped case is the same as Mbappe’s.

The movement that provides the stellar power reserve is the HUB1233, which has been designed with this reserve in mind so that only hours, minutes and seconds are displayed. The massive 45mm case houses it in all its skeletal glory.

  1. Cristiano Ronaldo – Jacob & Co. Flight CR7
    Ronaldo, whose star status is as unshakable as his ego, has stepped up to the plate with a watch in collaboration with Jacob & Co., so it’s no surprise to see him wearing it at various events in Qatar. While there are two designs in his new collection, he’s been seen using a design called Flight of CR7, which is made of rose gold and features an image of him performing a header. As far as statements go, this one sure is a resounding one. Ronaldo wasn’t just here to play – he wanted to ensure his legacy as the greatest player of all time. We’ll see what other players on this list have to say about it.

Flight of CR7 is powered by Caliber JCAM45 with 48-hour power reserve and skeletonized balance wheel.

  1. Kevin de Bruyne – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
    When Kevin de Bruyne played for Belgium, his watch proudly displayed Manchester City colours. Specifically, it’s Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph with blue pastry dials and white subdials. The Royal Oak is Gerald Genta’s signature design, known for its octagonal bezel, visible screws and integrated bracelet. Its iconic status has made it very popular, especially in football and hip-hop circles.

It has a 41mm diameter stainless steel case and houses the automatic movement Caliber 2385 with a 40-hour power reserve.

  1. Neymar Jr. – Rolex Daytona Ref. 116518LN
    Brazil’s opening game against Serbia was outstanding, with Richarlison scoring a superb volley. However, the star player everyone was looking forward to in the Brazil squad was Neymar Jr, who was seen wearing a black and gold Rolex Daytona ahead of the game. The Cosmograph Daytona is one of the most prestigious sports watches in history, making it a true icon. However, traditional colorways like the Panda and Paul Newman are the most sought after, which is why the Neymar Gold Edition doesn’t rank high here.

referee. The 116518LN has a case diameter of 40 mm and is powered by Caliber 4130, a movement with a 72-hour power reserve and an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day.

  1. Lionel Messi – Rolex GMT Master II
    Honestly, this entry ranks pretty high just because it’s a witty product placement that made me laugh. Lionel Messi is the star of a Pepsi commercial, so his watch of choice is a Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi – the product placement is so subtle you probably won’t notice it. For the uninitiated, the Rolex GMT is often known by a nickname derived from the color of its two-tone 24-hour bezel. You have black and blue Batman, black and brown root beer and this red and blue Pepsi.

It has a 40mm Oystersteel case and Oyster bracelet. Inside, it contained a Caliber 3285 with similar specs to the Daytona above, with a 70-hour power reserve and amazing accuracy. Although, of course, it has a GMT function rather than a chronograph function.

  1. Harry Kane – Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/1R
    Now, now, let’s not be biased. Yes, Harry Kane may be England’s captain, but based on his performances alone, he’s second on our list. Here is a real stunner: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5980/1R. Nautilus watch in full rose gold, black dial, chronograph with superimposed 12-hour and 60-minute counters. Stylistically, it emphatically showcases all the aspects that make the Nautilus a true Holy Grail watch, with its porthole-shaped dial, horizontal markers and thick bezel.

Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s the ultimate expression of sporty luxury design, though Nautili steel is generally more sought after. It is powered by the Caliber CH 28-520 C/522 movement with a 55-hour power reserve and is wound by a 21k gold oscillating weight.

  1. Virgil van Dijk——Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic
    At the top of the list is Dutch star player Virgil van Dijk, who owns one of the most eye-catching watches launched this year, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Blue Ceramic. It is the most impressive haute horlogerie on this list, capable of displaying the time, date, day, month, moon phase, leap year, and day of the week with astonishing accuracy without adjustment for almost a century.

Additionally, ceramic is extremely difficult to machine, especially when producing colored versions, making the case itself a statement piece. It has a 41mm diameter case in the collection’s signature octagonal shape and is powered by the Caliber 5134 movement with a 40-hour power reserve.

zelin0802 / December 13, 2022

2022 Luxury Watch Guide

Welcome to our annual luxury cheap Watch Guide, where we take a closer look at the making of some of the world’s finest watches – from astonishing creativity to astonishing technical advancements and stunning aesthetics. Similar to the supercar and hypercar industry, the watchmaking industry tests the skills of the best mechanics, challenging them to ever higher standards.

In automobiles, especially racing, engineers work side by side with mechanics to shave hundredths of a second off race times. In the world of horology, engineers, scientists, master watchmakers and master craftsmen work side by side to find solutions to challenging problems—sometimes taking years to achieve their goals. In watchmaking, top brands compete for the top spot as they set records and accomplish achievements never before seen in the industry. They turn to fields such as aerospace and automotive for new high-tech materials, new methods, new designs and new solutions. Click on the link below to view our curated list of luxury watches.


Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter
The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is exactly what you’d expect from a brand that has cleverly incorporated instrumentation into its timepieces, measuring more than just lap times. The brightly colored watch features five different measurement scales, including three tachymeter scales, a pulsometer scale, and a respiration gauge to measure the number of breaths per hour. Powered by an automatic movement, the 42mm black ceramic case and black dial are the perfect backdrop for the concentric circles.

Louis Monet game time
Called the inventor of the chronograph by Guinness World Records, Louis Moinet has created some of the most advanced and fascinating chronographs. The Time to Race Automatic Mechanical Watch in titanium is designed to evoke the time of the gentleman racer. Collectors can choose a one- or two-digit number as their lucky number, which serves as the backdrop for the dial’s hour and minute hands at 6 o’clock. This skeletonized watch showcases the chronograph mechanism on the dial side, so when the pusher is activated, the mechanism comes to life. The watch has a tachymeter scale and a Racing Green rubber strap.

IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Woodland Edition
IWC Schaffhausen has long been associated with aviation and pilot watches. In fact, the brand was the first to implement inner iron cases in the 1930s, providing antimagnetic watches for pilots. Now, the brand is taking its Top Gun Pilot watch to new heights with a Woodland Green Ceramic Edition. (Yes, it has a longstanding relationship with the elite fighter pilot school.) This mechanical automatic watch boasts chronograph functions, small seconds and a coveted soft inner iron case.


Angelus Gold Carbon Fiber Flying Tourbillon
Swiss watch brand Angelus is renowned for its skeletonized timepieces featuring advanced mechanics and high standards of elegance. This Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon combines high-tech carbon materials with precious 18-carat rose gold for an avant-garde, almost sporty look. 5N rose gold case in ultra-light carbon composite with a mix of matte and polished finishes. The 18-karat gold bridges are in stark contrast to the black carbon motherboard. The hand-wound mechanical movement features a flying tourbillon escapement visible with a large aperture at 6 o’clock.

Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Curvex CX
Since its founding in 1992, Swiss watch brand Franck Muller has been synonymous with exceptional design. The tonneau-shaped Curvex case is the brand’s signature and the case of choice for some of the most advanced complications. The Grand Central Tourbillon is housed in a large Curvex CX, ergonomically designed for comfort. An oversized aperture in the center of the dial reveals the ever-rotating tourbillon. Thanks to the innovative movement structure, the hour and minute hands are neatly placed around the tourbillon cage. It is available in a variety of colors.

Purnell Escape II Marcell Jacobs Edition
Independent Swiss watch brand Purnell made its debut two years ago to sensationalism, quickly attracting the attention of watch collectors around the world. The brand offers a unique feature dubbed the “World’s Fastest Dual Tri-Axis Tourbillon”. That’s not a pun. The Double Spherion timepiece features two tourbillon escapements in a circular frame; each has three axes that rotate within each other at different speeds for optimum precision. For this edition, the brand teamed up with Marcell Jacobs, European Championship winner and record holder for the fastest men’s race in Europe. Crafted in 18-carat white gold, this 48mm watch is set with 304 round brilliant-cut diamonds and additional baguette-cut diamonds.

Grande Seiko Kudo Constant Force Tourbillon
Japanese watch brand Grand Seiko is like a sleeping giant to the US market, having only been allowed to sell stateside a few years ago. Since crossing the big pond, it has captured the hearts of watch lovers with its complex movement and charming aesthetics. This platinum hard titanium case Kudo (meaning “heartbeat” in Japanese) is no exception. It is fitted with a constant force tourbillon, which means power is released in a constant, even flow for precise isochronism. Not an easy task, this watch combines a constant force mechanism and a tourbillon on one axis – something unprecedented in watchmaking.

Chopard LUC Full Strike Tourbillon
When a watch brand combines several top-level complications into a single watch, it is called a grand complication. This is the case with the recently launched Chopard LUC Full Strike Tourbillon, which, as its name suggests, also combines a minute repeater with a patented one-minute tourbillon regulator and a patented single-piece pallet lever. Sound complicated? This is. Exactly 568 micromechanical parts, including the integrated sapphire crystal and striking gongs, are harmoniously and precisely assembled.

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047
The brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, invented the tourbillon escapement, and this Tradition Tourbillon is anything but traditional. Instead of a main dial, the watch showcases most of its mechanisms on its “dial” side, including the fusée-and-chain tourbillon. Regardless of the winding level, the fusée and chain mechanism provides a constant torque, thus optimizing the isochronism of the watch. Crafted in platinum, the 41mm watch is the ideal home for the 542-piece movement. Breguet uses high-tech materials such as silicon on some movement parts.

Calendar and Astronomy

Jacob & Co. Astronomical Clarity
The Jacob & Co. Astronomia watch is a magnificent mechanical and aesthetic feat of art and watchmaking. The 50mm Astronomia Clarity watch features an 18ct rose gold and transparent sapphire case. This provides a three-dimensional display view of a constantly rotating lacquered magnesium Earth, opposite a rotating sun, created using Jacob-cut diamonds with 288 facets. The hand-wound movement has an impressive 365 parts. The dial side displays the brand’s gravity three-axis tourbillon, whose three elements rotate at different speeds. The movement of the watch is like a choreographed dance.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
The latest DB25 Perpetual Calendar from Swiss indie brand De Bethune showcases the moon and stars at 12 o’clock in a bright blue circular display. The moon is a sphere rotating inside a blue outer circle. It is harmoniously opposed to the date display in the subdial at 6 o’clock, which also indicates leap years. Day of the week and month are indicated through apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock. Measuring 40 mm in diameter, this mechanical watch is made of grade 5 titanium and features a transparent sapphire case back.

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Calendar
German watch brand Glashütte Original presents the PanoMatic Calendar watch in 5N 18 carat rose gold. Equipped with the brand new Caliber 92-09 self-winding movement, it displays hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phases, annual calendar with panoramic date and retrograde month display (3 o’clock to 6 o’clock on the dial), and runs until 12 o’clock Then jump back on the outer ring at 1 o’clock). The watch is so precise that the date display only needs to be adjusted once a year, on March 1st, followed by the short month of February. It has a sapphire crystal glass to view the exquisite movement.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica Caliber 945
Jaeger-LeCoultre, a brand deeply rooted in history and watchmaking tradition, presents a mechanical timepiece this year featuring the Stellar Odyssey, beautifully depicting astronomy in all its glory on the wrist. The Grand Complication Caliber 945 offers a star chart with celestial bodies, a zodiac calendar, a minute repeater and a celestial flying tourbillon, which Jaeger-LeCoultre called the Cosmotourbillon. It combines not only some of the most difficult watchmaking feats, but also some of the most advanced craft illustrations.

HYT MoonRunner Supernova Blue
Relatively young, independent Swiss watch brand HYT re-entered the world of watches with a bold mandate, building on its unique craftsmanship of telling time using fluids and tapping into its love of astronomy. This 50mm black titanium watch features a hand-wound movement that indicates the hours, minutes, day of the week, month and moon phases as well as a retrograde hour display. The moon takes center stage in this watch, with surrounding rings indicating the day and month.

Bovet Recital 20 Asterium
Crafted in 18 karat gold, this exquisite Bovet 1822 is a unique timepiece that depicts the sky as seen from Earth and displays hours, retrograde minutes, seconds, day of the week, date, month, year and moon phases, as well as functions such as tourbillon escapement (at 6 o’clock), day/night solstice indicator, time difference and astrological zodiac display. The central sky map features stars and constellations laser-engraved on translucent blue quartz and filled with Super-LumiNova to glow in the dark. This extremely complex watch is equipped with a movement composed of 771 huge parts, has a patented double-sided tourbillon, and more.

space age

Ulysse Nardin Freak S
Few watches have quite the space-age look of the latest Ulysse Nardin Freak S, with its central time indicator resembling a spaceship. Crafted from 18-karat rose gold, titanium and ceramic, this high-tech self-winding watch features a silicon escapement to ensure durability and require no oiling or servicing. It is equipped with a tourbillon and special escapement with two oscillators, a differential and a proprietary grinder. The entire movement makes one revolution in the center of the dial every hour. There is no crown, and the time is set by rotating the bezel.

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convex
While some watches put the moon or the sun at the center, the GMT Balancier Convexe puts the earth in the spotlight with its 423-part movement. This mechanical artwork rotates with a round hand-painted titanium sphere and includes a GMT function to show the time in another zone; the world’s 24 major time zone cities are listed on the case back. The balance wheel is sloped for added precision and the case is raised to fit ergonomically on the wrist.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross
Blending a high-tech look with graphic geometric patterns and brilliant mechanics, the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross embodies the vision of the multidisciplinary artist who collaborated with Hublot to develop the piece. As a Hublot brand ambassador, Ross was inspired by sculptures he created for Hublot a few years ago. The watch features a titanium honeycomb mesh and a hexagonal interpretation of the Big Bang for an industrial look. The watch is powered by a 282-part movement.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach
Crafted from ultra-high-tech mineral composite fibre, this 47mm watch pays homage to the brand’s partnership with Lamborghini. The Hyper-watch has a unique movement designed to be reminiscent of the supercar engine of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse. It features a V-shaped hole that reveals the double flying tourbillon escapement angled at 90 degrees to ensure more precise timekeeping. The design of the RD112 movement is patented.

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO
The independent Swiss brand is a leader in 3D watchmaking, beloved for its often imitated cases of spaceships, animals and other objects. Plus, the mechanics are always on the cutting edge. The brand’s first chronograph was a hand-wound dual chronograph with a case in zirconium metal. The watch offers chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, lap timer and cumulative timing modes, and is equipped with a proprietary ‘FlexRing’ shockproof system.

zelin0802 / December 12, 2022

Christmas gift guide 2022: Exclusive timepieces for that special someone

Thinking of gifting a unique timepiece to your loved one? Choosing the perfect watch may not be easy, but you can’t go wrong with these unique luxury timepieces.

Read on for our top picks for the perfect timepiece gift this Christmas (one watch might not be enough).

Jacob & Co. X Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

The idea behind the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon began with the idea of how to recreate the visceral feel of the iconic Bugatti W16 engine in a timepiece?

After a full year of development, the team has answered that question in the form of the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, a timepiece that pays homage to the car. First, the incredible flying tourbillon movement is a completely clean design. Jacob & Co. has been working with its movement suppliers for over a year to realize this spectacular creation. Inspired by the Chiron’s sleek lines and movement, or “engine block,” the case is designed to replicate a Bugatti engine, placed under a massive sapphire crystal for all to see.

The watch’s most striking action is when the wearer presses the crown on the right side of the timepiece, and the engine kicks in—the crankshaft turns and the pistons pump up and down, mimicking a real internal combustion engine. Two “turbochargers” on one side of the engine block (there are four in the actual Chiron engine) spin when the engine is running, adding to the visual impact. The crankshaft that drives it is just one of 578 parts and is one of the smallest and most complex watch parts ever built, made from a solid single piece of steel. The pistons themselves are difficult to manufacture, and they are mounted on the crankshaft at different angles for maximum effect. Forming the engine block are two “exhaust” ducts, further evidence of the design’s engine theme.

The groundbreaking Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is also available in 18K rose gold – a real engine and an exclusive piece on the wrist.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

Created exclusively for the 50th anniversary of the Cortina watch, TAG Heuer has launched a limited edition of 10 TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina watches, inspired by the unique aesthetic ten years ago that first made the original The Carrera became a favorite track for on-and-off serious racing pilots.

Retaining the silhouette of the original Carrera, including the iconic lugs and buttons, it is now enlarged to a modern 42mm and housed in a solid gold case for an added touch of luxury. The hour and minute hands are polished in 18K 3N yellow gold and coated with Super-LumiNova to ensure optimum readability even in the darkest of nights. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, the clearly visible dial features an elegant tri-compax layout in a new style, but in a lush shade of green. Although rarely known for using gemstones as dial materials, TAG Heuer decided to go the unorthodox route and use albite emerald (also known as maw setting) for the dial.

This bold move is a refreshing update to the Carrera collection and a tribute to Jack Heuer’s original 1963 design, retaining its finely balanced design, including the slim bezel, sloping lugs, classic pump design buttons , as well as a simple small seconds at 6 o’clock and a low-key date window.

Corum Admiral 45 Tourbillion

Corum Corum specially launches the Admiral 45 Tourbillon watch, limited to 10 pieces worldwide, this is a 45mm timepiece specially created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch. Due to the limited number of individual models produced, no two of the iconic dodecagonal Admiral case are identical, a random result of the combination of undulating layers of carbon composite material with 18K gold. Each watch is thus unique, thanks to cutting-edge materials that further enhance the already striking gold elements, and the purity of the pure black sunray-finish dial, evoking and reflecting the wonder and mystery of the starry night sky – — a magical sight under the moonlight.

This watch is particularly noteworthy for its closed dial, which is unusual for Corum as their tourbillon watches usually have skeletonized dials. Uncommon on Corum watches, the sunray-finish dial has a subtle iridescence that exudes a magnetic aura and features a sunray-finish anthracite dial with a tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock. Corum’s signature ‘upright key’ emblem, which alludes to the fortitude and perseverance required to master the craft of horology and watchmaking, has been painstakingly hand-set for added dimension and finesse for a finishing touch.

zelin0802 / December 8, 2022

Ice, Ice Baby: A glimpse at Jacob & Co.’s brightest timepieces

Jacob Arabo’s eponymous label is forging a clear path to horological legitimacy.

I’ve struggled to put into words the impact fake Jacob & Co. has had on the haute horlogerie world. Because there really is no one in the industry quite like Jacob Arabo. Arabo came to New York from Russia at the age of 14. At 16, he began apprenticeship as a jeweler to help support his family. While making jewelry for other brands, he sold his creations as a sideline, then in New York, 1986.

His designs quickly caught the attention of singer Faith Evans, who turned her husband Notorious BIG on to Arabo’s work. Soon, he was known as “Jacob the Jeweler” in hip-hop lyrics. But it wasn’t just celebrities who attracted Jacob & Co.—collectors also took notice of his luxury timepieces, as Arabo specializes in highly complex timepieces with unconventional designs made from precious materials such as rare gemstones.

Arabo is a self-made man who approaches watchmaking the same way he picks out the best gems: with great technical dexterity and a certain respect for decadence. Some might say it’s overdone, but at the same time, there’s something dazzling about Jacob & Co.’s work. The following five timepieces perfectly embody this unconventional manufacturing method.

Jacob & Co 3-D Astronomia Minute Repeater Watch
Truly an otherworldly watch. 3-D Astronomia debuted at Baselworld in 2014 and has grown more brilliant and complex every year. This year, Jacob & Co. launched a minute repeater watch to raise funds for this extremely rare watch.

It features a carillon minute repeater with three gongs and hammers (instead of the usual two). The gongs are stacked vertically so that you can better see them in action through the side of the sapphire case. The chime chimes in the familiar Doh Re Mi tone to mark the hours, minutes and 15-minute intervals, and an innovative safety feature protects the mechanism by preventing the wearer from winding the watch when it strikes the time. Four arms radiating from the center support a three-axis tourbillon.

On ice, the 3-D Astronomia features 15.44-carat sapphires in two shades of blue, with baguette diamonds on the plate and case. The display also features a one-carat spherical diamond and a painted dial rotating globe. The coolest part? A flying astronaut spinning around the axis of the 3D Earth! replica tourbillon watches

zelin0802 / December 6, 2022

A Closer Look: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

“Salmon” and steel.

While most of the buzz surrounding Patek Philippe’s recent releases has centered around the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G white gold, vintages aside from the Nautilus and Aquanaut are mostly about. One of the most striking new additions for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001.

Continuing Patek Philippe’s steel watch developments beyond its traditional sports models, ref. 5935A is a fresh take on a model that debuted in 2016. Previously only precious metals (i.e. white gold or platinum) were offered, ref. The 5935A is the first stainless steel model and one of the brand’s few complex metal models. and referee. The 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most striking feature is the “rose gold-plated opal” (or “salmon”, if you prefer) dial.

The World Time in steel is significant because the World Time is arguably Patek Philippe’s signature watch. A selection of vintage models is one of the few reference models from Patek Philippe that can sell for seven or even eight figures.

awarded to the referee. 5935A adds a chronograph, but it still has the modern style of the iconic complication. referee. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but in modern materials and colors. The 41mm diameter is also larger than the usual size for Patek Philippe complications, giving it a sporty feel.

Naturally, for many, the dial is probably the biggest selling point of this watch. The pink hue, often called “salmon” or copper, is a trendy color at the moment—I’m a huge fan of the shade myself—and it’s perfect for this particular style.

For one thing, this color is usually only found in platinum watches or special editions. But lately Patek Philippe has been introducing the color to a wider range of models, including the ref. 5320G and ref. 5172 grams. Adding pops of color to these models is a shrewd way to increase their visibility and popularity, perhaps diverting attention away from the Nautilus and Aquanaut.

referee. Larger, lighter and louder than the average Patek complication watch, the 5935A is a compelling alternative for anyone who prefers world time or more general complications but wants a more casual and modern aesthetic .

Part of that is due to the steel case, ref. The 5935A is an entry model, at least by the benchmark of Patek Philippe complication watches. At just over $63,000, it’s not much of a value proposition—it’s rarely used to describe Patek Philippe anyway—but it’s one of the most affordable complications in the catalog, and one of the most interesting.

Stainless steel
If you are a watch lover who is familiar with cheap Patek Philippe, then you will know that complex watches with stainless steel cases are often very special. For example, the most expensive Patek Philippe ever made is stainless steel. Leaving aside the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek Philippe only has two steel complications, the ref. 5905/1A and this ref. 5935A.

Besides being rare, steel is a strong material and arguably more versatile from a visual standpoint, as it can be both casual and formal. Although larger than its predecessor, the ref. The 5935A is lighter due to the case material.

Despite being larger — it’s 41mm, compared to 39.5mm for the Platinum model — it doesn’t look or feel significantly larger. However, it stands out on the wrist thanks to the dial color, which also gives it the feel of a sporty everyday watch (though not exactly a sports watch).

Other than that, the case is the same as its precious metal counterpart. It’s fully polished and has the same “winglet” style lugs inspired by vintage refs. 2523 world time. The pushers on the case are the same: chronograph pushers at two and four o’clock, and a world time pusher at 10 o’clock.

While the case is of excellent quality, the finish is uniform. More variation in the case finish would make it more attractive, not least because the shape of the lugs lends itself to alternating surface finishes. This will also better differentiate it from the precious metal version.

About the case, the only thing I would definitely change is the strap, which feels lackluster relative to the look of the watch (and its price). The copy watch comes with a pair of straps in the same color, one in grained calfskin and the other in nubuck, but both feel a bit too thin for the case.

“Rose Gold Plated Opal…Carbon.”
Without a doubt, the highlight of the references. 5935A is the dial. Described by Patek Philippe as a “rose gold-plated opal,” the dial is decorated with a “carbon” pattern that first appeared on Calatrava ref. 6007A made to commemorate the inauguration of the brand’s new headquarters in Geneva. It’s this prominent pattern that gives the watch a casual vibe that complements the stainless steel case.

While Patek Philippe did not specify the nature of the motif, it appears to be stamped and extremely precise. Traditional, engraved guilloché would have been a bonus, but Patek Philippe only offers it in its top complications or rare handcrafts, all with watches priced in the six figures. The watch retails for just over $63,000, which makes it an approachable complication by Patek Philippe standards.

Notably, the central portion of the guilloché appears to be the same size as on the smaller reference. 5930P. Instead, the world time ring is larger to accommodate the enlarged case. Reference ratio. The 5935A is arguably better than its smaller cousin, as the urban disc feels cramped.

But the downside of keeping the central part the same size is the 30-minute register at 6 o’clock, which is still quite small. It’s sharp enough, but feels unnaturally small.

The rest of the dial is typical Patek Philippe, which is to say quite refined and detailed. The applied hour markers are solid gold but plated with a dark gray finish, as are the hands, while the brand name is on a plaque inserted into the dial just below 12 o’clock.

double complication
referee. The 5935A is a world time flyback chronograph, a novel but complementary combination of complications powered by the CH 28-520 HU that debuted in 2016 alongside ref.5935A. 5930G. Despite the unusual complication, the movement features signature Patek Philippe mechanical elements, namely the Gyromax balance wheel and the Spiromax hairspring in silicon.

The movement is made up of 343 individual parts – roughly double that of a normal chronograph – including the column wheel and the chronograph’s vertical clutch, while the world time mechanism is an additional module below the dial. By Patek Philippe standards, it is relatively compact and slim considering its functionality, measuring 34.5mm in diameter and 7.97mm in height.

In terms of trim, the CH 28-520 HU lives up to what you would expect from a current Patek Philippe. Its decoration is clean and thorough, though mostly by machine, with a few hand touches here and there – industrial haute horology, in other words.

Importantly, the decoration of the movement has improved significantly over time, reflecting the brand’s substantial progress in aesthetic sophistication. For example, the bevels of the bridges and counterbores are now mirror-polished and no longer have the milling marks visible on the ten-year-old caliber examples.

After spending some time with the referee. 5935A, it’s easy to see why this is one of the stars of the 2022 collection. For starters, it combines a pair of useful complications in a steel case — the material alone will appeal to some enthusiasts — and it looks good, too.

referee. The 5935A is undoubtedly an expensive watch by almost all benchmarks, but by Patek Philippe standards it is acceptable. Admittedly, availability will be zero in the short term, as with any new Patek Philippe model, but it will become more readily available in the near future, and as always, this will be a reference. The 5935A is a compelling proposition.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph
Ref. 5935A-001

Diameter: 41mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: stainless steel watch
Mirror: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: Cal. CH 28-520 HU
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph and world time
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power Reserve: 50-55 hours

Strap: Calfskin with folding buckle, additional nubuck calfskin strap