zelin0802 / February 11, 2023
The Tudor Pelagos 39: Confident Compromise
A lightweight heavy-duty dive replica watches hot.
Announced with much fanfare last year, the Tudor Pelagos 39 transformed an all-rounder, everyday sports watch into the insect-like specialization of the Pelagos line—which for a decade had been the pinnacle of Tudor dive watch prowess. Downsized, lower-spec, and decidedly more traditional – does Tudor’s newest Diver fail compared to its burly sibling? Or did it succeed by finding a new, broader avenue to reach a less specific audience?
I would argue that yes, it does. At this point, I will come to the last topic about Pelagos 39. I covered the release here, experienced it firsthand here, made a cheeky comparison here, and explained how the 39 was chosen for Hodinkee’s Tool Watch of the Year here. If you’re looking for a mixture of objective understanding and subjective taste for Pelagos 39, I can save you thousands of words of reading. This is a great dive watch. Functional, well made, just the right size, modern, sophisticated, instrumental and totally fit. This is the kind of watch that will make other watches in your collection seem irrelevant. You deserve one, and so should I.
In order not to repeat too much of what I’ve already said, let’s put the specs and siblings aside. The Pelagos 39 is a titanium diver’s watch that measures 39mm wide by 11.8mm thick with a 47mm lug spacing. The strap weighs approximately 107 grams (size not determined) and also comes with a rubber strap. So far, the Pelagos 39 has been offered in a single size, with a black dial and brushed gray/black ceramic with luminous markers. It features a sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, 21mm non-drilled lugs, screw-down crown, closed caseback, and the included titanium bracelet features Tudor’s T-Fit micro-adjustment system. All told, you’re looking at a recent price hike of $4,600 ($4,400 when the above video was shot).
The competition is described below, but the background of the Pelagos 39 is largely set by its earlier siblings, the standard Pelagos three current offerings, all based on a 42mm all-titanium diver’s watch measuring 14.4mm thick with 50mm lugs – Dragging. Available in black, blue or vintage-effect LHD, the original Pelagos is a top-spec 500m diver’s watch with a helium escape valve (HeV), a full matte finish and a self-adjusting bracelet clasp.
Since its original release in 2012 and its evolution into the military-specific FXD, the Pelagos has represented both the flagship of the Tudor dive watch portfolio and – by my measure – one of the absolute best dive watches on the market .
Then, last August, Tudor copy released the new Pelagos 39, which offered an evolution, still in titanium, in a smaller, more wearable form. But these proportions are clearly intended to market Pelagos to a wider and less male audience, but come with technical compromises, including lower water resistance, no HeV, no self-adjusting spring clasp, and less finishing Aspects of ultra-matte execution.
Why were Pelagos 39 made?
So, if you need a recap of previous episodes, here it is. All of these factors set the stage for a watch that surprised and even delighted many, especially when Tudor made it clear that the new Pelagos would not replace the current trio of 500m apex dive watches. An extension of the line, the Pelagos 39 combines the look and aesthetic appeal that made Pelagos so distinctive, with the easy-to-wear joy of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight.
As I and many others have said, this is broad market acceptance of Pelagos since the 39 became a reality. A rethink that trades the specificity of full diving for a watch that doesn’t cut corners on the way to being an incredible everyday dive watch. Standard Pelagos have a unique appeal. It’s a bit big for my wrist, both in terms of thickness and, more importantly, lug to lug. Also, it’s a little serious. Especially for someone like me who is at best a recreational diver.
Pelagos can feel like too much if you don’t dive at all. I think of the Pelagos 39 as Tudor’s casual alternative to traditional dive watches combined with Pelagos. The specs and size don’t really detract from its ability to be a good dive watch, but the compromise makes it less hardcore than standard Pelagos. That’s the point. If you’ve ever thought that Pelagos were awesome and a little special at the same time, the Pelagos 39 makes sense.
A modern creation from Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is only available in a no-date configuration, powered by the brand’s MT5400 automatic movement. This is a COSC-certified chronometer movement with a 70-hour power reserve and a frequency of 4 Hz. Backed by a five-year warranty, it’s the same movement we use in watches like our beloved Black Bay 925.
After months of thinking about it, I’ve come up with a metaphor that I think makes sense, but might upset some people. The Pelagos 39 is for the dad (or mom) diver. for luxury watches replica
On one of my favorite Youtube automotive channels, The Straight Pipes, hosts Jakub and Yuri have a term for a car that is both good and attractive, but not the highest performance specification for a given model. They call it “Daddy Fast”. The idea is that the car is quick enough to feel fun and powerful, but not for someone who wants to do a few laps around the track and shave a tenth. I kind of think of Pelagos 39 in a similar way.
Leaving aside the gendered nature of “Dad” (shoutout to Pelagos Mom), the standard Pelagos are a great choice if you dive a lot and like to have a really great dive watch with more specs than you need. But what if, like me, you dive a lot less than you used to because you have kids and work? Heck, what if you don’t dive at all, but you love the raw power and casual allure of the form? That’s where the Pelagos 39 fits in. It’s not an RS4 or a GT3, it’s an S4 or a Carrera T.
Sure, it’s a compromise of general practicality, but it still beats having a full minivan and just buying an Apple Watch, doesn’t it?
Please accept – the part about the Pelagos, not the stupid attack on the almighty Apple Watch – as I meant it. Simple compliments for making a rugged watch that is just as relevant while diving as it is on land. When you’re not on vacation. When you are at home, live your life.
How is it worn on the wrist?
I’ve said this a few times, but for my 7″ wrist the Pelagos 39 are basically perfect. You’ll need to adjust the size and settings of the T-Fit, but it’s light, lays flat, and fits really well on the bracelet, which tapers to 16mm at the clasp. I found myself loving the bracelet more than the rubber that came with it, and of course, I fell in love with the NATO Pelagos 39.
The T-Fit system is quick and easy to adjust and offers wide enough increments to manage any wrist swelling I’m experiencing. No, I don’t like the T-Fit more than the OG Pelagos clasp, but given the diminished focus on diving, I think the T-Fit fits the shorts and works just fine.
I’ve also found that the Pelagos 39 can be used with various other straps, the only possible hindrance is the 21mm lug size, which is a pain, but also means I can share the strap with my Mido Ocean Star GMT Hodinkee LE ( This is also 21 mm). Do I want both to be 20? Deeply, yes. But when it comes to the Pelagos 39 specifically, this is one of the few watches that I might actually like the bracelet on. It just feels complete.
The legibility is excellent, the bezel is smooth and feels great, and the simpler dial design, without the complicated rehaut, date and additional writing of other Pelagos, gives the watch a more traditional feel. This is only backed up by the red name and the iconic Tudor snowflake hands.
I can’t mention the redecoration and text without mentioning one of the 39’s biggest aesthetic changes, the brushed ceramic bezel insert swapping the original’s matte finish for a shinier finish that definitely doesn’t feel Pelgagos. Face to face and on the wrist, it’s a big change and I’ll say that while I definitely prefer the all-matte finish of the original model, I’m impressed with the bezel of the 39, which definitely adds a unique character.
If wear resistance ranks high on your watch buying priorities, and I think it should, the Pelagos 39 is definitely worth a try.