zelin0802 / August 7, 2023

Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory Launch Only Watch Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension

Four-axis tourbillon. A world first, donated to watchmaking’s most prestigious charity. This is a technical achievement. This is a recognition of the deep and fruitful partnership between Jacob & Co. and the Concepto wholesale fashion watches factory. This proves that being “inspired by the impossible” can make the impossible a reality.

The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is equipped with a three-axis flying tourbillon at the end of a two-armed merry-go-round. It rotates every 60 seconds. This makes it a four-axis tourbillon, the first of its kind to be installed in a wristwatch. What’s more, the tourbillon cage contains a high-frequency constant-force escapement.

The Fourth Dimensional Astronomical Revolution is not just an unheard of complication. Its execution is also carried out from another dimension. In keeping with the Only Watch 2023 color theme, it contains 35 colored stones, culet-up. A kinetic work of mechanical art and a jewelry achievement, Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is more than just a unique piece. This is a ship like no other.

Just four months after launching the groundbreaking Astronomia Revolution, Jacob & Co. is once again pushing innovation to the limit. The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is an enlarged and upgraded three-axis tourbillon one-minute rotation movement. Jointly developed, launched and contracted with Concepto Watch Factory, Jacob & Co.’s main movement partner, the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension features a four-axis flying tourbillon.

This watchmaking achievement is the brainchild of Valérien Jaquet, Founder, Master Watchmaker and CEO of Jacob & Co. and Concepto Watch Factory. “For almost 20 years, the Concepto watch factory team and I have had a deep and close relationship with the Jacob & Co. brand and Jacob Arabo himself,” said Valérien Jaquet. Only Watch and the values conveyed by this charity auction deserve our closer cooperation to deliver a timepiece of exceptional mechanical and aesthetic quality. As tourbillon specialists, we are very proud to have co-signed this world-first project with Jacob & Co. to aid in the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy.

“From the very beginning of the Astronomia series, I wanted it to spin as fast as possible, and we got to a minute with Astronomia Revolution,” said Jacob Arabo. I hope it’s a phenomenal tourbillon, and then we get to the quadcopter. This is the first time a timepiece breaks the three-axis tourbillon barrier. Together, Jacob & Co. and Concepto Watch Factory decided that this level of ingenuity and expertise had to be brought to Only Watch, a charity so unanimously recognized. “

Crystal structure
The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a unique piece that will be auctioned on November 5th and will benefit Only Watch in the fight against Duchenne muscular dystrophy. The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is more than just an implemented sports concept. Jacob & Co. is a watchmaker and jeweler and the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a fine watchmaking and fine jewelry creation.

The part beneath the carousel is a rose gold structure crafted like a large piece of fine jewelry. Jacob & Co. set 35 gemstones in this openwork structure, chosen from 7 types of gemstones. Each one is custom cut to create a field of colored light. Place each pointed bottom side up. The layout intentionally feels random, creating jagged expanses of space. It captures light, reshapes it and sends it back, and shades and enhances it. The fourth dimensional astronomical revolution is a mechanical achievement from another dimension or crystalline planet. wholesale fake watches

Expand horizons
Jointly developed with the Concepto Manufacture, the JCAM 54 caliber has the same construction as all other Astronomia calibers. Only a small portion is hidden by a decorative plate set with 35 gems. From the center, the rest of the movement emerges in the shape of a two-armed merry-go-round. This represents the majority of the movement’s 485 parts, which make one revolution every 60 seconds. It acts like a seconds hand and is the first axis of rotation of the tourbillon.

At the end of the first arm, the first axis of rotation, there is a flying three-axis tourbillon. Fly because the tourbillon cage is supported by only one end (the lateral one). Three axes because the escapement rotates through three sets of gears. The first spin takes 60 seconds, the second 18 seconds, and the last 15 seconds. This is not only a large number of axes, but also very high speeds. The principle of the tourbillon is to increase the number of positions the escapement occupies in space. The more positions and the faster the speed, the better the tourbillon can balance the negative influence of gravity on its precise time measurement. With four axes and such a fast rotation, the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension provides tourbillons with the best parameters never seen before.

energy core
These rotational speeds require a lot of energy. And even more so with the spin of the carousel. Such a strong flow of water could easily damage the escapement if it was passed directly to it. To take advantage of the influx of resources, Jacob & Co. and the Concepto watch factory devised a way to protect the escapement, a constant-force device for which a patent is pending. Every 1/6 of a second (that is, the frequency of the balance wheel), the gear train activates a whip. It acts as a buffer between the barrel and the flow of energy to the tourbillon.

Each time the whip is activated, it transmits the energy required by the escapement for the next 1/6 second. Also, as this would undersupply the balance wheel. No more, or the tourbillon and the entire rotating platform would be overloaded. Apart from the obvious benefit of retaining the escapement, this has important timekeeping advantages. When combined with the extreme position afforded by the four tourbillon axes, this unique creation from Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory undoubtedly enters the fourth dimension of watchmaking.

Observation deck
The rose gold case has a diameter of 47 mm and an overall height of 27 mm. These dimensions reflect the dimensions of the JCAM 54 movement. Such a spectacular work of watchmaking art needs to be appreciated from every possible angle. The Astronomia case is built around curved sapphire glass panels held together by precious metal. Best of all, the wide domed sapphire crystal allows you to see both the JCAM 54 movement and what lies beneath.

It is a combination of shape, color, gem variety and gem cut. The backplate of the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a work of art, something like it is often seen in cathedrals. Except this one is made of gemstones. There are 35 in total, of 7 different types, each available in a different color. Golden garnet garnet is orange in color. Citrine is yellow in color. Sapphire is blue. Tsavorite is green. Rudolph garnet is purple in color. Topaz is light blue and pyrope garnet is red.

alien landscape
Each stone is cut to a custom shape and is not part of any classic cut. Also, they are not placed the way gemstones are usually, with the table up and the culet down.fake Jacob & Co. took the opposite decision, creating a geometric field, an uneven landscape of crystals and light. Founder, Chairman and Creative Director of Jacob & Co. Jacobarabo is a huge fan of all things space-related. His passion gave birth to the Astronomia collection. Again, it takes on a new, imaginative shape, like one would expect to see on a Star Trek episode or the moon-orbiting planet Krypton. Jacob Arabo was a pioneer in the use of colored gemstones back in the 1980s, incorporating his taste for reds, blues, oranges, yellows and greens into numerous timepieces. Before the term rainbow mosaic became popular, many high-end jewelry watches have adopted the rainbow mosaic process. Many other mountains are known as Mount Alequino, Mount Camo or Mount Peru, a nod to the colorful formations of Vini Cuenca, also known as Rainbow Mountain. The color gamut of the Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is actually an updated form of Jacob & Co.’s signature. Like the JCAM 54 movement, it is an extra step towards “drawing inspiration from the impossible”.

Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory Introduces Only Watch Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension Tech Specs
move:

Manual winding movement cal. JCAM 54
Diameter: 42.30mm
Height: 19.30 mm
Power reserve: 36 hours
Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
Number of components: 485
Function:
Rotating satellite bracket: 1 rotation in 60 seconds
Three-axis flying tourbillon:
1st axis: 1 rotation in 60 seconds
2nd axis: 1 rotation in 18 seconds
3rd axis: 1 rotation in 15 seconds
1/6 second constant force. Frequency (patent pending)
Hours and minutes rotating dial with differential
Winding and time setting on case back
case:

Diameter: 47mm
Height: 27mm
Material: 18K rose gold, sapphire strap
Case back: Engraved 18K rose gold
Glass: Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Water resistance: 30 m (3 bar – 3 atm)
Dial and hands:

Subdials: Skeletonized, blue polycarbonate with 5N hour-markers
Hands: 5N red gold Dauphine
Movement backplate: rose gold structure set with 35 custom-cut gemstones: garnet, yellow citrine, blue sapphire, tsavorite, red garnet, topaz, pyrope garnet
Strap and buckle:

Strap: blue alligator leather
Buckle: 18K rose gold buckle

zelin0802 / November 30, 2022

Patek Philippe Launches Four New Grande Complications Watches

Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe fake has used gem-setting techniques to adorn its timepieces.

While diamonds may seem to complement the style of any watch, it’s important to remember that a factory-set timepiece has more meaning and value than an aftermarket example. It showcases the sheer talent and innovative approach of a pioneering brand built on precision and excellence. Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe’s luxury watchmakers have focused on adorning its collections of complex timepieces with gem-setting throughout their case designs. fashion replica watches

Patek Philippe is proud to continue its gem-setting art with four new popular and colorful models. The first collection to receive recognition is the Grandmaster Chime, which pays homage to the mechanical sophistication of this flagship model with the launch of two new Platinum versions. The second watch released in the new collection is the coveted perpetual calendar chronograph, which highlights the two jewelry versions of blue and red gemstones.

Reference 6300/400G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double-sided (409 diamonds)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 6300/401G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double face watch (291 diamonds/118 sapphires)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36‑750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/12P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 rubies)
Dial: Lacquer red
Movement: Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/11P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 sapphires)
Dial: Lacquer blue
Movement: Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

zelin0802 / July 22, 2022

Grand Seiko Eleance Collection Brings New Slim Case and New GS Movement

Big news from Japan today: the new Grand Seiko Elegance collection brings a new ultra-thin case, some very special dials, and most importantly, the new Grand Seiko Calibre 9S63 hand-wound mechanical movement. (However, Grand Seiko’s recent pricing anomaly appears to persist.) More on all of this below.

It’s really been a breath of fresh air to see Grand Seiko’s new collection – apparently, they couldn’t keep up their excitement ahead of BaselWorld either. Currently, the Grand Seiko Elegance collection includes four models: two in 18-karat rose gold (ref. SBGK002; red. SBGK004), one in 18-karat gold (ref. SBGK006) and one in stainless steel (ref. SBGK006). SBGK005 — Yay! ).

Eight years after the last hand-wound mechanical movement at Grand Seiko, all four Elegance Collection watches feature the same new 9S63 calibre, running at 4 Hz and offering a 72-hour power reserve. This appears to be the new baseline feature for all previous-generation movements introduced recently, which is a good thing. On the dial side, the movement displays the central hours and minutes, the seconds hand at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Gone are the offset power reserves we see on Spring Drive Grand Seikos, like my beloved SBGC001 Spring Drive Chronograph, review it here.

Grand Seiko says the 9S63’s accuracy is between -3 and +5 seconds per day, and if there’s anything to be commended about all the major Japanese brands, it’s their honest and down-to-earth accuracy claims – unlike the Swiss (or even A more optimistic statement often heard by some German) manufacturers. Although Grand Seiko sometimes tends to distinguish between gold and steel models of movement, in this case (pun intended) all four models will feature the Grand Seiko 9S63 movement with hot blue screws – apparently, this is Grand Seiko’s first. Very cute, if you ask me.

If tempered screws are sweet, the dials are stunning: both 18ct rose gold versions (references SBGK002 and SBGK004) feature Urushi dials. These traditional Japanese lacquered dials are produced in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where all mechanical watches are made, using sap from trees that grow around the small town north of the studio. The translucent brown and dark black Urushi dial complements the taka-maki-e tiered markers and “GS” lettering. Maki-e literally means “sprinkled picture”, while taka-maki-e is a “raised” or layered variant.

This technique was developed during the Muromachi period (1336-1573) and meant that the desired pattern was made of countless layers of material built on the base lacquered dial. For the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Urushi dial, multiple layers of pure gold or platinum powder are sprinkled on the dial one layer at a time (guess what?) this is a “time consuming process”. It reminds me of the PVD-coated platinum numerals in the ceramic bezels of select Rolex watches – while Rolex’s solution is cutting-edge high-tech, Grand Seiko’s approach is heart-warmingly traditional.

The hands – if you’ve never had a chance to hold a Grand Seiko before – eat your warm heart – are beautiful, at least in the official pictures, and look beautiful with every dial variation. As cool as the Urushi dial might be, I’m still curiously drawn to the 18ct yellow gold version and the plain Jane white dial – a nod to the unmistakable and unmistakable Japanese design of the Elegance Collection, which seems to me, at least to me, in this gold The most prominent of the variants.

In this regard, I’m very grateful for how Grand Seiko has incorporated elements of its much-loved case design into this new 39mm wide and 11.6mm thick “Mechanical Skirt Collection” watch – because yes, this is the Grand Seiko is referring to this new timepiece collection. The sturdy, curved lugs feature wide upper surfaces, but are cut short to keep the case away from the upper and lower edges of the wrist—a must for any decent dress fake watch. The lugs seem to be fairly narrow in width, but I think they pull it off somehow, which is just right quirky and doesn’t look weird or petite. I’d take the risk of eyeing it at 18mm; the GS doesn’t currently offer such a spec, but the lug width does look narrow, and we’ll have to see these in action to better determine how the Elegance Collection will actually fit.

Closed – or open, depending on how you want to look at it – this new Elegance collection of four watches is a stainless steel variant (reference SBGK005) with the exact same case shape and size as the gold version, but with a blue textured dial. Texture GS is called “Mt. Iwate” pattern; the watch studio is located in Morioka city in northeastern Iwate prefecture. Exactly how this crease texture ties into Iwate I’m not sure, but it’s a recurring theme in select Grand Seiko models.

The pricing structure of the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection turned things upside down. As one might expect, the two rose gold variants with Urushi dials will command a premium over the gold versions with regular lacquered dials and no taka-maki-e indexes and GS designation. Fans of Seiko and Grand Seiko may remember the Presage Automatic we covered here, where €2,500 buys you a multi-coloured Urushi dial and a whole watch with case, movement, strap, and more.

To me at least, the gold one in rose gold very incomprehensible – another nail in the coffin of the late Grand Seiko’s sensible pricing strategy. Rose gold may have some premium over gold, but four times the cost of an entire copy watch with a similar dial makes no sense. I’ll admit, other than Grand Seiko’s greedy random price generator software working hard again, I’ve yet to understand how this crazy premium is justified.