zelin0802 / August 3, 2022

Patek Philippe World Time 5231J Watch

The groundbreaking world timepiece updated in 2019, the fake Patek Philippe World Time Reference. The 5231J is an almost impossible piece of horological art to buy.

Patek Philippe World Time Reference. New for 2019, the 5231J sits alongside the existing 5231, with a platinum case and matching platinum rice bead bracelet, defining the pinnacle of understated decadence. The 5231J features a yellow gold case of 38.5mm wide and 10.23mm high, slightly smaller than the 39.5mm wide 5231. This is the same case on the 5230 World Chronograph, which is easier to work with because their central dial has a finer guilloche pattern than the enamel. The smaller 38.5mm wide case is preferable, though, as it lacks the inscription “Patek Philippe” on the bezel at 12 o’clock and “Genève” at 6 o’clock. I just don’t think contemporary tastes gravitate towards bezel engraving (or well-designed fonts, for that matter).

Several people have correctly pointed out how 5231J is reminiscent of an extremely rare Ref. 2523, introduced in the mid-1950s, perhaps a Patek Philippe World Time watch. Notably, the winglet lugs and polished flat bezel you’ll see on this case were introduced in 2016 with the 5230 World Chronograph. This is a big year for world time watches due to changes in global governments such as Moscow. UTC+4 to UTC+3 and a global shift in power resulted in a new city in one time zone (Dubai replacing Riyadh is one of them). prices of PP watches

Enamel dial
The 5231J features a cloisonné enamel astronomical sphere in the center of the dial. Cloisonne is one of the four enamel processes used by Patek Philippe. The process involves taking a thin gold wire and bending it into the shape of the intended design. The wires are then fastened to the base plate coated with an enamel layer. After the cells formed from the wire are filled with enamel, the process then involves multiple firings, depending on the specific color and effect they are trying to achieve.

The enamel center depicts Europe, Africa and the Americas with a range of greens, browns and yellows, as well as blue representing water. When you see it up close and personal, it’s definitely a work of art. In the center of the enamel dial are (rather short) circular hour and toffee hands in 18k yellow gold. As you might guess, using short, polished gold hands on such a rich enamel background hinders legibility. I’d say it’s an unfortunate side effect inherent in this watch, but I wouldn’t argue with anyone who thinks the circular hour hand is an unforced error.

world time function
Along the outer ring are the names of 24 cities, each representing a time zone. At 10 o’clock, you’ll see the pushers move the time forward an hour when engaged (the minute hand is unaffected), as well as the city and 24-hour rings. The red arrow at the 12 o’clock position will point to the city corresponding to your time zone. Granted, you don’t get the precision increments that would allow a second time zone indicator of 30 or 45 minutes (there are 37 time zones around the world when you consider those), but the ease and elegance of the operation here is world-class. swiss copy Patek

Let’s not kid ourselves: a Patek Philippe World Time watch is one of those things that only Logan Roy from Succession doesn’t get knocked down — though perhaps he’ll be more impressed, “It tells you how rich you are at 24 in a time zone, Instead of licking the boots of future son-in-law Tom Wambsgans’ surprisingly cringe-worthy line, “It’s pretty accurate in telling you how rich you are,” when presenting the Patek Philippe.

The 5231J uses a Calibre 240 HU (for all Globeheads, that’s the Heure Universelle), which consists of 239 parts, including a 22k gold rotor, and the 240 HU has a power reserve of 48 hours. What’s really remarkable about the 240 HU is that it’s extremely thin, only 3.88mm thick, which is achieved through a patented design that allows the winding rotor to be integrated with the bridge plate. By comparison, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 WT (there are several, including the Overseas World Time 7700V) is 7.55mm thick and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 772 (Geophysical Time) is 7.13mm thick. As for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra WorldTimer, I’m not quite sure about the thickness of the movement, but I know the case is 15.5mm thick.

zelin0802 / July 12, 2022

Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1: The world’s lightest minute-seconds tourbillon chronograph

There was only one new timepiece from Richard Mille at the SIHH Watch Salon last week, but it’s pretty awesome. With its RM 50-03 McLaren F1 model – which debuted as the world’s lightest split-seconds chronograph tourbillon watch, weighing less than 40 grams including strap – the brand brings yet another high-tech Material introduced to watchmaking: Graph TPT, also known as graphene.

Graphene was first isolated back in 2004 by Professor Andre Geim from the School of Physics and Astronomy at the University of Manchester. He and his colleague Professor Konstantin Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for this discovery in 2010 and at the University in 2015. Collaborative research between the Institute, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT) has resulted in a case machined in a modified form of carbon TPT, the physical properties of which have been enhanced by the introduction of graphene .

Graphene, a nanomaterial six times lighter and 200 times stronger than steel, is currently the focus of work between McLaren Technology Group and McLaren Honda to bring the material to McLaren Grand Prix cars . Richard Mille’s timepieces have long shown motorsport influences in their designs and materials, and he sees graphene’s physical properties as significantly reducing the density of its carbon composite case while increasing its a means of resistance.

Carbon TPT, first introduced to the watch industry by copy Richard Mille in 2013, consists of 600 layers of parallel carbon filaments, each no thicker than 30 microns, impregnated with a supercharged resin and compiled by a CNC machine, where the fibers are inserted between the layers The direction changes by 45°. The composite was then heated to 120 degrees Celsius under 6 bar pressure to cure it. Graphene is added to the resin mixture, and the end result is a material known as Graph TPT, used exclusively in watchmaking by Richard Mille. The Graph TPT case of the RM 50-03 consists of three parts, manipulating the material by creating and programming special ultra-precision cutting tools over a long period of time, with a high degree of durability and extreme lightness, while also exhibiting the same undulating, wooden Grain – like the characteristic stripes on other Richard Mille watches made of carbon TPT.

The movement is also very light – just 7 grams – thanks largely to the use of grade 5 titanium and carbon TPT for the baseplate and bridges, as well as the extreme skeletonisation of these and other components. (Titanium is used extensively in McLaren Racing’s Formula 1 engineering build program to lighten and strengthen chassis and aerodynamic elements, and as a material for transmissions, linkages and valve systems. The sport combines brushed, polished, satin finishes And the soft-polished surfaces are all done by hand. The dial, also made of titanium, requires three hours of angling and polishing.

Carbon fiber TPT is also used for the lateral cage, inspired by the wishbone suspension structure of McLaren-Honda Formula 1 cars, and is attached to the case to support movement without traditional case rings. This unconventional system allows for a perfect fit between the movement and the case and increases resistance: in tests carried out at the Richard Mille workshop, the case movement endured a shock load of 5,000 Gs without incident.

The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 combines the tourbillon escapement with the split-seconds chronograph function in one mechanism, requiring perfect energy transmission. The need to reduce friction prompted Richard Mille’s watchmakers to improve the tooth profiles on the movement’s barrel and gear train, resulting in more balanced torque and optimized output. Torque and 70-hour power reserve are displayed on coloured scales on the front of the watch between 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock.

Other technical and aesthetic touches influenced by McLaren Formula 1 include the skeletonized chronograph pushers, reminiscent of the air intake ducts of McLaren Hondas, and the shape of the crown resembling a racing rim.

After extensive research on the split-seconds clip, Richard Mille developed a new split-seconds mechanism for this watch that reduces the energy consumption of the chronograph by 50% while reducing spindle friction. The six-column wheel that controls each rocker of the split-seconds function is designed to ensure perfectly synchronised movements, clean functional locking and very stable settings.

Graphene and its unique properties are also incorporated into the strap: nanomaterials are added to the rubber strap to increase its elasticity and wear resistance. copy watch for sale