zelin0802 / January 31, 2024

Zenith launches new Chronomaster Original three-date watch

Dear IWS friends, as you know from the launch of the LVMH Watch Week concept, these are exciting days for the watchmaking industry, and especially for the brands led by the Arnault family. On the occasion of this event, Zenith has added a fascinating new complication to its Chronomaster Original collection: the triple calendar.

Design and functionality
The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is an extremely elegant watch with a vintage charm that, like the rest of the collection, respects its DNA. The brand decided to launch the watch in three versions: white dial, green dial, and finally anthracite dial.

All three watches come in the typical 38mm stainless steel case of the Chronomaster Original collection, with sharp, elongated lugs. Being a triple calendar chronograph, the dial features three chronograph counters, with the day, month and month visible through three windows at 10, 2 and 4:30 o’clock respectively. The final gem, on the counter at 6 o’clock, we also find the moon phase, making it even more romantic.

Each model comes with an integrated bracelet or calfskin strap without the quick-switch system unique to other cheap Zenith collections, maintaining the nostalgic and traditional DNA of the Chronomaster Original collection.

Triple calendar chronograph movement
Opening the sapphire crystal case back, we can admire the El Primero 3610 self-winding movement. In the version with calendar and moon phase, this movement maintains a frequency of 5 Hz for the first time, guaranteeing one-tenth of a second. Accuracy. Additionally, the power reserve is 60 hours.

The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is an ambitious and highly competitive variant of the Chronomaster series. Ambitious to combine a chronograph with a triple calendar with moon phases; competitive because all this is offered at a very interesting market price. https://www.reviewluxurystore.com/

zelin0802 / June 21, 2023

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Three-dimensional, intricate and impressive.

The hallmark of the exclusive watchmaking brand of Greubel Forsey fake is its inclined high-speed tourbillon, which completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon Greubel Forsey (GF) launched when the brand debuted in 2004.

Nearly two decades on, the brand’s typical regulator has been fitted in a completely different place than the tourbillon’s 24-second architecture. Although the tilted tourbillon is retained, the Architecture as a watch is almost new, including a completely new case design containing a rebuilt movement – the physical realization of the building – which together form a cohesive overall.

At first glance, the Architecture appears to be just another GF sports watch, so one might assume it’s just a modified movement modified to fit the case of the brand’s best-selling sports watch. But not only that.

The tilted tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly new where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Even though high-end sports best replica watch site are becoming more common, they’re still pretty new. In short, it is one of the most famous watches in the GF series.

While the tourbillon’s mechanics are familiar, the details of the movement have been completely reimagined to emphasize the brand’s unique approach to movement construction, which values three-dimensionality and impeccable finishing in design.

This incremental improvement upon the original tilting tourbillon movement was crucial to distinguishing the Architecture from all its predecessors. In fact, Architecture is arguably the most impressive version of the movement to date, a quality that is especially apparent when looking at the watch up close.

One of the defining features of the architecture is the design of the movement and case, which, like GF’s other sports watches, is ultra-modern, but with increased depth of field, the visual experience goes a step further. In short, more movement is visible from every angle than before.

To achieve this, the movement has been completely skeletonized, with many key components deliberately elevated, creating a sense of depth while providing a spectacular profile view through the middle of the sapphire case. Like many GF watches, the Architecture is quite chunky, but it utilizes all the height for maximum visual impact.

Importantly – and this is a Greubel Forsey after all – the finishing of the movement is excellent. The first-class decoration multiplies the appeal of a beautifully constructed movement. The exaggerated structural bridges are a highlight: each one is mirror-polished on both flat and slightly curved surfaces. fake watches for men

To accommodate all of this, the case had to be huge, nearly 17mm tall, with a bezel measuring 45mm in diameter. But like other sports watches from GF, the cleverly designed case minimizes the size of the watch. It still looks big on the wrist, but it’s not bulky and bulky.

The streamlined design also has surprisingly good ergonomics for a watch of this size. The case is slightly curved, and the strap blends into the short lugs, so it fits well even on smaller watches. That said, there’s a downside here: the Double Fold does feel bulky, and it’s not as sleek as the watch itself.

building exterior
Oversized and sleek, the curvaceous case resembles early GF sports models from a distance, but becomes instantly distinctive when viewed from the side. The lugs and sides have been extensively reworked to set it apart from the standard sports case. The result is a case that blends the concept of a sports watch with the mechanical theme of an exposed movement.

The Architecture case is unorthodox in all respects. In fact, it’s more accurately described as a clear sapphire ring sandwiched between the titanium bezel and caseback. The lugs are “floating” – they are placed a negligible distance from the sapphire ring and are integrally formed with the case back.

While the brand has previously used sapphire windows on its cases, the Architecture’s sapphire windows encapsulate the perimeter of the movement and are second only to the Sapphire Double Balancier in terms of transparency among GF watches.

But even the all-sapphire Double Balancier is arguably less interesting compared to the Architecture, whose sapphire case is completely round in the middle. This lets in plenty of light from multiple angles, allowing for a brighter view of the dial components.

Of course, the movement is fully visible from the side, a key perspective for the design, as the movement was developed from the ground up to look tall, roomy and architectural. In fact, the view from the side of the case resembles a densely built cityscape, but is even more impressive in miniature.

In principle, the most important aperture is located at six o’clock, revealing the high-speed tourbillon inside. Thanks to the tall case, the tourbillon can be admired even on the wrist – the view is further enhanced by the abundance of light entering the case, causing the frame’s polished bevels to subtly shimmer as it makes its 24-second rotation. Add to that the tilting balance and tourbillon, and it sure is fun to watch.

But there is an opinion that the power-reserve mechanism visible at two o’clock is equally intriguing – more on this below.

To further emphasize the complexity of the case, the bezel and front crystal are not flat and round like traditional watches. Instead, they resemble a saddle, with the double curvature and oval shape that has become a hallmark of GF sports watches.

First seen on the GMT Sport, the curved ellipse has been architecturally refined to make it less pronounced, resulting in a well-proportioned aesthetic that is pleasing to the eye, while still allowing plenty of light to hit the skeletonized dial.

In typical GF fashion, the inner steps of the bezel are laser-engraved with the central theme of the brand philosophy, although more discreetly than on past few models due to the smaller text size – there are only nine words on the bezel – arguably A step in the right direction.

As impressive as this case is, perhaps one criticism can be made: the bezel is attached to the case back via screws that are fastened to the inside wall of the case. These screws are clearly visible through sapphire windows on the sides of the case, creating a slight distraction when viewing the more important components inside.

Thanks to the streamlined design of the case, the lugs are integrated into the design. They are specially designed to showcase the strong lines that define the case. Although not connected to the case middle, the lugs blend almost seamlessly into the case.

The Architecture’s lugs are more intricate in design and finish than GF’s past watches. The tops of the lugs are noticeably flat with a brushed finish that contrasts with the curved, polished sides. The flat top surfaces of the lugs are finished with mirrored bevels, which are mechanical and aggressive, while their sides provide a smooth and organic look.

The sides of each lug are grooved to create a deep polished channel flanked by brushed bezels – a nice combination since the mirror surface is less noticeable due to its concavity. Although the style of this cheap replica watches is very modern, details such as the lugs recall the smooth lines of 1930s racing cars.

Best of all, the lugs are ergonomically designed so they slope down towards the strap.

The buckle also contributes to abrasion resistance. The one-piece case is complemented by an equally chunky folding clasp, similar to those found on other GF watches, and looks bland in comparison to the delicate and intricate case. While the buckle is impeccably crafted, it is not as streamlined as the case.

Architecture doesn’t have a bracelet yet, but I’m sure there will be, just like other GF sports watches. A typical GF titanium bracelet costs around $40,000, which will be an expensive option, but will certainly enhance the smooth lines of the case.

deconstruction movement
While the case construction is impressive, the movement is undoubtedly the most tangible expression of the GF philosophy.

Architecture’s movement is familiar at first glance, and for good reason, as it is one of many variations on the base movement. But each variant rearranges the gear train to suit each model’s overall aesthetic.

It’s worth noting that its closest relative is the Twin Tourbillon Technology, which has many similar elements, but as the name suggests, the Double Tourbillon Technology has a more complex biaxial tourbillon and more mainsprings, four to be exact , not three in the schema.

GF movements are often unconventional and often asymmetrical in layout, reflecting the design philosophy. So every caliber is pretty much a little horological puzzle piece when it comes to understanding the basics of the movement.

That said, most of GF’s movements are largely traditional at their core, so they can be figured out after thought, as was the case with Architecture. Knowing the function of the architecture does demystify its intricate exterior, which may take away some of its esoteric charm, but it doesn’t take away from the fact that the movement is a visual treat.

At the heart of the architecture is a simple transmission system that begins with the barrel and progresses to the second and third wheels that drive the tourbillon cage.

Additionally, the third wheel drives an auxiliary pinion that powers the seconds hand visible on the dial side. One notable quirk is that the gear ratio between the third wheel and the tourbillon cage is 2.5 times the gear ratio between the third wheel and the pinion, which explains the fact that the tourbillon cage rotates once every 24 seconds (because 60 seconds divided by 2.5 equals 24 ).

Stabilizer
The tourbillon itself is a traditional design of the brand and can be found on other GF watches with the same tourbillon, such as the Tourbillon 24 Seconds Vision. It rotates the balance wheel at an inclination of 25° to the horizontal every 24 seconds.

Theoretically, the inclination allows the balance wheel to occupy more positions sequentially in three-dimensional space, which further averages the positional errors caused by gravity compared to traditional tourbillons, which are designed to constantly move in a fixed vertical position. Rotating balance wheel. Timekeeping accuracy, however, is more of an academic exercise than a practical need in the realm of six-figure watches like this one.

Made of lightweight titanium, the tourbillon cage is slim and shaped like a tuning fork, further reducing weight. The two-prong end on one side of the cage is balanced – it adds a little mass to balance the weight of the escape wheel and pallet fork on the other end.

An interesting detail that only a true nerd will appreciate can be found in the tourbillon. Like all types of tourbillons, it has a fixed wheel that acts as a hub to rotate the escape wheel as it is dragged by the tourbillon cage.

But since it is a tilted tourbillon and the fixed wheel is parallel to the plane of the movement, both the fixed wheel and the escape wheel pinion need to have their teeth cut at an unconventional inclination, which is very rare in watchmaking.

The top of the tourbillon cage is ruled and the edges are bevelled. It’s done in the typical fashion of other GF models with the same 24-second tourbillon. This means that it is not as elaborate as the higher-end double tourbillons, which have black polish, rounded arms and sharp corners within the chamfers.

One nitpick here is that the tourbillon is simpler than the brand’s flagship Bi-Axis Tourbillon, which is not only more mechanically complex but also has a more sophisticated finish. But a 24-second tourbillon might be a better fit for a sports watch, especially one as busy as Architecture. In this case, less is more, as the simpler tourbillon does distract from too many other visible moving parts, of which there are many. Of course, the high-speed nature of the 24-second tourbillon and the stability it brings fit the concept of a sports watch.

arches, arches, all around
This is probably because the architecture is not just about the tourbillon, but the architecture of the movement as embodied by the five black polished titanium bridges that support the main components.

At first glance, the bridges appear to be arranged randomly, a paradoxical tribute to traditional watchmaking craftsmanship. Their placement is reminiscent of a traditional pocket watch movement, where the bridges are attached to the base plate at seemingly arbitrary angles.

This seemingly chaotic layout, with all the bridges at different angles, ironically produces a coherent aesthetic, a feat few brands are able to achieve.

The finishing of all components enhances the coherence of the design. In terms of the grandeur of the decoration, it is clear that every detail has been carefully conceived, and it does not seem to be added at all.

However, the architecture goes beyond the usual high level of finishing for which GF is known. The degree of completion of the arched bridge is very high.

Each arch is complexly curved but still presents clear, uniform angles along its edges, neither breaking curvature nor showing any sign of unevenness. Each bridge plate is impressively finely balanced, avoiding looking bland or overly polished to the point of overly rounded.

Despite the complex visuals on the front, the time is still indicated in the traditional way by the central hour and minute hands. However, the hands are elevated by an impressively high tripod, allowing them to climb over numerous raised components. reviewluxurystore.com

Since the hands are raised, a slim pinion is required. This in turn necessitates the jewel bearings visible inside the tripod to minimize additional friction on the protruding pinion.

Of course, the tripod itself is well-made—it has a fine-brushed surface, while many of the edges have neatly rounded bevels.

While most of the movement is visible on the dial, this in turn means that certain components are inevitably hidden. The keyless mechanism and intermediate wheel are located deep in the movement, below the power reserve mechanism. In other words, they’re located under the motherboard on the back.

Full size “difference”
Besides the arched bridges and the tripods for the hands, another architectural highlight of the Architecture – no pun intended – is the exposed power reserve. While traditional in terms of mechanics, the skeletonized dial exposes the details of the mechanism, allowing the wearer to enjoy a distinct interaction with the movement as it is wound.

Of particular note is the use of a full-size spherical differential, which consists of a spider gear and vertical planetary gears sandwiched between two sun gears.

This type of differential is also found in other GF movements with a power reserve display, and is similar to the differential in a car gearbox, but its size means that it is only used in watches that can accommodate thickness. In contrast, traditional power reserve mechanisms used in thinner watches use flat planetary gears, which are less visually interesting, but are usually hidden under the dial anyway.

The spherical differential in this architecture is large and visually impressive, and can be seen in action through a sapphire window next to the crown – turning as the barrel is wound.

The exposed mechanism makes it easy to understand. The star gear measures the difference in rotation between the two sun gears; this difference turns the pinion, which in turn turns the power reserve indicator, which is a rack with a small red arrow on the edge for Indicates the state of the wind.

The upper sun gear, driven by the winding train, is visible from the dial side, below the differential. Therefore, when turning the crown to wind the watch, the wearer will enjoy a vivid sight-the winding wheel, barrel, star gear and power storage rack rotate in synchronization.

At the same time, the sun gear below is constantly driven by the moving train. Unfortunately, the sun wheel is hidden by the mainspring, but with the mainspring unwinding, the sun wheel rotates so slowly that it is not a priority from an aesthetic point of view.

It is worth noting that the GF Double Tourbillon 30° technology in ceramic has a similar mechanism, with transparent sapphire bridges to fully reveal the movement wheel train.

geometric landscape
The motherboard visible from the back may appear sparse compared to the intricate front, but each element is still impressive.

Of particular interest is the lower pivot of the differential mounted on an elaborate tripod, similar to the one that supports the pointer. It’s equally well made, right down to the chamfered edges and grooves on the screw heads. There is also a sleeve in the center of the tripod that holds the jewel of the differential pivot. The rhinestones are a completely unnecessary addition that is both aesthetically pleasing and highlights the mechanical function of the bridge.

But unlike a hand tripod, this is functionally redundant; a simpler bridge or an enclosed sports board would do exactly the same. However, it is this finely crafted finish and look that is where GF movements are appreciated. At the same time, the three-legged bridge highlights the importance of the often overlooked differential mechanism.

One criticism is that the motherboard looks too clean, as if it is the result of a purely industrial process, without manual work. Take, for example, the conical sloping walls around the differential tripod—they’re clearly the product of CNC machining, albeit with great skill, since it’s more challenging to cleanly machine a circular surface than a flat vertical surface.

But the motherboard is not just modern machining, as there is obviously a lot of hand finishing. Notably, many of its edges present fine rounded corners, which are not particularly wide due to the thinness of the sheet, but executed to the highest level and with incredible uniformity.

It also helps that the motherboard is finely frosted in typical GF style, rather than the sporty Cotes de Geneve. The clean look of the matte surface complements the angles nicely and emphasizes its mirror-polished character. In terms of color contrast, the gold sleeve inlaid with rubies breaks the monochromatic monotony of the splint and splint.

The complex geometry of the bridge is actually the point of the building – it is all about mechanical form rather than function, yet tastefully done with an impeccable and refined quality. www.review4uwatch.com

As an example of this quality, it is worth noting the bridge of the lower pivot of the tourbillon. While it would be easier to close the board as a whole, the architecture opts for an elaborate approach, almost to the point of excess.

The bridge supporting the underside of the tourbillon cage is a large concentric frosted ring with ‘A’ shaped arms to support the pivot. There is also a jewel-encrusted socket on the rim of the ring for the pinion of the third wheel. Of course, all of its edges are uniformly angled, with plenty of inward and outward angles.

Less obvious but equally admirable is the intricately machined form of the main plate surrounding the ring. It has an intricately sculpted profile reminiscent of the cast metal casings of industrial gearboxes, such as those one might see on larger ships. But, of course, this is done on a very small scale and with complex finishing. The surface is finely ground, free from the machining marks that inevitably result from milling curved profiles, especially at this size.

The same can be observed in the area above the keyless piece, a myriad of planes inclined at different angles with curved edges, providing an intriguing aesthetic that further emphasizes the asymmetrical design.

All in all, the architectural movement presents a surprising combination of elements that appear casual and industrial, but on closer inspection it reveals the refined, impeccable finishes expected of the brand. The result is coherent and reflects the theme and style of the watch. In short, the design is more modern than GF’s earlier movements, but the execution is just as good.

If it wasn’t obvious by now, this watch will now be seen as another attempt at a high-end sports watch. The architecture is a classic example of good design, the result of which is that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Many of its constituent elements are clearly borrowed from GF’s past, but the watch feels satisfying.

While the tourbillon inside is not the most advanced type GF has ever made, the overall crafting of the movement is certainly one of the most refined to date. The building is a watch in which one should enjoy the forest, not the trees, but paradoxically, the necessary level of enjoyment can only be achieved through the impeccable individual components that few others have accomplished so successfully. top replica watch

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Architecture

Diameter: 47.05 mm (case) and 45 mm (bezel)
Height: 16.8mm
Material: Titanium and Sapphire
Crystal glass: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 meters

Movement: 24-second tourbillon architecture
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator and tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: manual winding
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with titanium folding clasp