zelin0802 / April 8, 2023

Tudor Black Bay series

The Tudor Black Bay series grandly launched the Black Bay 54 watch, paying homage to the brand’s first diving watch The Tudor Black Bay series grandly launched the Black Bay 54 watch. Equipped with a 37mm case and equipped with the original Tudor movement, it pays the most sincere respect to the brand’s first diving watch, the 7922, which came out in 1954, with pure spirit and modern expression.

The Black Bay series mainly draws on Tudor’s early series of diving watches, and the newly launched Black Bay 54 (Black Bay 54) is an almost faithful replica of the brand’s first diving watch, the 7922 model. The classic 37mm case continues the original proportions. But under the retro appearance, it also uses the original single chronograph movement MT5400 of the Tudor watch and the waterproof depth of 200 meters, demonstrating the excellent technical strength that keeps pace with the times. The one-way rotating outer ring without scale marks is also one of the classic designs, which is reminiscent of the vigorous rise of scuba diving in the early 1950s. . In addition, the new watch also shows new ideas in many aesthetic details. The lollipop-shaped second hand is reminiscent of the appearance of the original model. The crown and outer ring are also based on the original proportions, and are innovatively designed according to the principles of ergonomics, with a more modern style.

features

  1. Classic 37mm stainless steel case, 60-minute stainless steel unidirectional rotating outer ring, no scale marks
  2. Arched black matte dial, decorated with delicate radial patterns, embellished with gold-plated decoration
  3. “Snowflake” hands, a major symbol of Tudor diving wholesale watches, came out in 1969, coated with A-grade Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous coating
  4. The original Tudor watch movement MT5400 has been certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC), equipped with a silicon hairspring, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours
  5. Optional stainless steel three-link “rivet” strap or rubber strap, both equipped with Tudor “T-fit” quick-adjust buckle
  6. Five-year transferable warranty without registration or periodic inspection

Backtracking to the classics

The Biwan series goes back to the tradition, inherits the classics, and always respects the important design that established the unique aesthetic style of Tudor watches. It incorporates the core design elements of the brand’s past diving watches, and the Black Bay 54 may be the most faithful to the classic watch so far. Its prototype, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner 7922, is undoubtedly a masterpiece worth learning from. It is not only recognized and adopted by the Navy, but also widely sought after by professional divers. The initial model of the 7922 model adopts the “small crown” design, and the red triangle mark is not set at the 12 o’clock position, so as to create a more concise and unified appearance. Black Bay 54 follows this tradition, and strives to achieve extraordinary charm through a series of subtle detail designs. Taking the pointer as an example, its proportions have been adjusted to be more in line with modern aesthetics, but the method of fixing it at the bottom is exactly the same as the classic design in 1954. The edge of the outer ring is also innovated on the original basis of the 7922 model, which is not only ergonomic, but also reflects a modern style. The frosted dial decorated with exquisite radial patterns and the “T-fit” buckle that is easy to adjust give Biwan 54 a more modern and fashionable personality. The Tudor original movement MT5400 guarantees the excellent performance of the watch with advanced technology. cheap watch review

zelin0802 / September 5, 2022

Hands-on Jacob & Co. Epic X Titanium: Does it have an X-factor?

Jacob & Co. proposes an everyday luxury cheap watch with a skeletonized dial and sporty personality.

No diamonds, no double triple-axis tourbillon or ready-made complications, the Epic X collection is Jacob & Co.’s answer to the everyday men’s watch. The ultra-modern Epic X Titanium watch features an ultra-bold and completely original 44m grade 5 titanium case and features a hand-wound skeleton movement that displays the hours and minutes. The overall impression is one of transparency and airiness, offering a special vision of movement.

performance as an art form
Jacob & Co. cheap watches are unequivocal. The brand’s world is about performance and prosperity, and statement pieces that are bigger than life: bigger, louder, and more complex, the better. And in this category of ultra-luxury lifestyle watches, Jacob & Co. is unrivaled. The recently launched Twin Turbo Furious model is packed with so many exciting complications that it almost levitates. Or the stunning Astronomia Tourbillon Clarity timepiece, with its 3D octopus wrapping his tentacles on a three-axis tourbillon and spinning planets, or the Opera Godfather watch with a music box that plays the notes of a movie-themed music? (See below for the brand’s wildest creations)

So, what does Jacob & Co. offer men more suitable for everyday life? The Epic X series seems to fit the bill, and while it’s hard to describe it as a sports watch, it definitely exudes a sporty spirit. Designed by watchmaker Benjamin Muller, this Epic X watch draws design cues from Muller’s original Spyder collection before he was hired by Jacob & Co.

Uniquely shaped titanium case
The case of this Epic X model is made from grade 5 titanium in a variety of finishes, a lightweight metal that combines strength and corrosion resistance. The unique X pattern of the Epic X series extends from four points on the bezel to the lugs. Personally, the X looks more like the armored legs of an insect straddling a box, but that’s probably the octopus’s spell that worked for me. It looks confident, modern and masculine no matter how you look at it.

To suit this type of watch, the case and X-shaped lugs are satin-finished and polished. With a generous 44mm diameter and a case height of 12.3mm, the case offers a wide field of motion – however, it’s still surprisingly comfortable to wear on the wrist.

transparent mechanism
The skeletonized dial of the Epic X Black Titanium is an example of the modern art of key skeletonization with impressive transparency. The transparency and openness of this dial allows you to enjoy the different parts of the hand-wound movement. Consisting of 158 parts, the action on the dial takes place in the central and left areas, where the vertically aligned barrel and balance wheel first come into view. To hold the movable structure in place, the sandblasted upper bridge—actually an extension of the lugs—straddles the movement vertically and is hollowed out to ensure maximum viewing pleasure. On the right side of the bridge there is a plaque engraved with the series name, while the brand name is placed in a cutout at the top of the barrel at 12 o’clock.

Made exclusively for Jacob & Co. by Concepto, a respected movement manufacturer, the hand-wound skeleton movement (JCAM02) beats at 28,800 beats per hour and has a 48-hour power reserve. The back of the watch reveals a black bridge, and the back of the watch is engraved with the name of the watch and its creator, Benjamin Muller. Overall, the finishing and decoration of this movement is impressive, with finely grained bridges, beveled and polished angles and rubies set in sparkling rhinestones. very happy!

Another distinguishing feature of the Epic X is its original honeycomb rubber strap. Featuring a dynamic arrangement of hexagonal perforations, the strap is designed to echo the openwork pattern of the dial while providing wearer comfort. The strap is secured by a titanium pin buckle.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – JACOB & CO. EPIC X TITANIUM
Case: 44mm diameter x 12.3mm height – Grade 5 titanium case – Satin-finished, sandblasted and polished – Double-sided A/R treated sapphire crystal – Water-resistant to 50 meters
Dial: Skeleton – Minutes track on black inner flange (also available in red or silver inner flange) – Skeleton hour and minute hands, red lacquered tip
Movement: Hand-wound skeleton movement (JCAM02) developed by Concepto – Vertically aligned balance and barrel – 158 components – Power reserve 48 hours – 4 Hz frequency – Functions: hours and minutes
Strap: Black honeycomb rubber strap